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Frommer's Recommended

Jim Goode, a local restaurateur, operates a few places on or just off Kirby Drive. He does a great job with local cooking, which is why I like to steer visitors here. This restaurant is my favorite place to get catfish fried in cornmeal, executed here to a Texas T. Lighter choices include the mesquite-grilled flounder or red snapper. Texas-style seafood is a lot like Southern seafood, but with some Mexican and Southwestern influences, such as grilling with mesquite wood, and using fresh chiles, such as in the Mexican seafood cocktail known as a campechana. Here it's usually made with shrimp and crawfish tails (depending on what's fresh). A campechana sauce is tomato based, like the American version of cocktail sauce, but gently spiked with green chile instead of horseradish, providing a nice, fresh piquancy, to which a little chopped avocado and some cilantro and onion are added. Gumbo and oyster po' boys are also on the menu.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Texas, 4th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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