PRICE:
Frommer's Exceptional

Just a perfect restaurant, thanks to a combination of the most divine dining room and view in Vegas, not to mention one of the best chefs in Vegas. Situated at the top of the Palms Hotel, three sides of full-length windows allow a panoramic view of the night lights of Vegas; obviously, window-side tables are best, but even seats in the center of the room have a good view (though seats on the right are now bedeviled by the recent Palms tower addition). Many great chefs have restaurants locally but are rarely in their kitchens. (Emeril and Wolfgang, we love them, but they can't be in 25 different places at once.) This operation is carefully overseen by Andre, he of the eponymous (and excellent) restaurants Downtown and in the Monte Carlo. The menu changes seasonally, but anything you order will be heavenly. We've rarely been disappointed in either the appetizer or main course departments. For the former, look for a shrimp and artichoke timbale trimmed with avocado and cucumber relish, or a tissue-thin Kobe beef carpaccio with dark pesto topping and tomato comfit. The foie gras can come in a pink-grapefruit-and-citrus-honey reduction, a tangy combination. Fish can be a little dry here, so we suggest either the stunning New York steak with summer truffle jus and potato herb pancakes, or the meltingly tender lamb chops with some shredded lamb shank wrapped in a crispy fried crepe. Desserts are similarly outstanding and often of great frivolity, such as sorbet in a case of browned marshmallow, floating in raspberry soup. Yeah, we're going over the top on this one, but we bet you won't think we're wrong.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Las Vegas 2008, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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