PRICE:
Frommer's Highly Recommended

Best known as the man who gave New York City the $29 hamburger (because it was filled with foie gras, short rib meat, and truffles), which is a mistake you should not make -- not the hamburger itself, which is on this menu, and is fine, if extremely silly and now much imitated -- but because there is more to his cuisine than burgers. This is classic French bistro food, and while Boulud himself is not in the house, he does have a superb French chef (at this writing) running the show, and very well. Still, you can always tell when someone is cooking off another master chef's menu, as opposed to working their own magic (especially when compared to, say, Alex or Bartolotta, here at Wynn itself). But the cuisine here is still lovely; look at the beautifully composed salads, as roasted beets are laid out in precise order with endive and bleu cheese, or the stunning tartin du tomato, a whole reconstructed roasted tomato layered on goat cheese and puff pastry. The foie gras chaud is two fat lobes of liver on grilled pineapple, topped with a nearly see-through thin pineapple chip. Lean toward the slow-cooked dishes, such as braised short ribs Bourguignon with pomme mousseline and spring ramps -- earthy and hearty. Save some room for a cheese plate and go through the evening's artisanal selections with your server. This restaurant is one of only two that allows viewing of the Lake of Dreams show at night. A way to get around some of the high-end cost is to work with the appetizers -- cheese and charcuterie (try the duck confit terrine) are filling -- because the entree is a little too small to split satisfyingly.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Las Vegas 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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