PRICE:
Frommer's Exceptional

Like many of L.A.'s rising star chefs, Jason Travi cut his chops as a sous chef at Spago, cranking out 400 plates a night in that pressure cooker of a kitchen. Dues paid, he's now at the helm of one on the most talked-about new restaurants in Southern California, a tribute to the ingredient-driven dishes that make eating your way through the Mediterranean such a joy. His mornings are spent at the farmers' market -- annoying other shoppers as he buys up the best produce -- and evenings within his impressive open kitchen with his trusty crew of pirate-like line cooks, whipping up plate after plate of rustic French and Italian dishes such as tortelli with braised rabbit or lamb spezzatino atop celery root gnocchi. His standout dish, however, is the branzino (European sea bass) served en papillote with fennel, roasted peppers, and fingerling potatoes. You'll enjoy the decor as well, as it's reminiscent of a country estate with earthy Tuscan colors and textures, walls clad in farmhouse stone, distressed walnut flooring, and an lively indoor-outdoor terrace overlooking Culver and Main streets. Tip: The bar menu is served every night until 1am.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Los Angeles 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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