PRICE:
Frommer's Highly Recommended

This modern two-story building with a glass-enclosed elevator is the most casual of Chef Emeril Lagasse's three restaurants, and the most conveniently located for the average tourist. Unlike Lagasse's other restaurants, the dining experience here can be a bit hit-or-miss. It's never less than good (if not excellent) quality, but it can be unmemorable. Whatever variation on duck pizza (confit and fried egg with truffle oil on a recent visit) is always a sure thing, as are soups such as a nearly fork-able thick roasted garlic-Reggiano Parmesan with basil pesto. But while a recent garlic crusted redfish topped with a bacon and beurre rouge sauce was an excellent combination of flavors (even without the sauce), a pork porterhouse was just a blah hunk of meat, while the shrimp with grits rather dull compared to other versions around town. It's also a particularly noisy space in a town not known for hushed dining.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's New Orleans 2008, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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