PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

The Italian entry from the Livanos family, owners of Molyvos and Oceana and no ordinary Italian this! The menu is ambitious and hearty, with offerings that include appetizers like the affetati misti (a platter of cured meats), pesce crudo (raw fish marinated in olive oil), and grilled tripe and unusual, rustic pastas such as spaghettini with razor clams and mullet roe, orecchiette with cuttlefish, plus staples like tagliatelle Bolognese and spaghetti carbonara. Rich meat mains include suckling pig cooked in milk and hazelnuts and the intense vaniglia e cioccolato, vanilla-scented veal cheeks and chocolate-and-spice-stewed wild boar. Service is good, but not up to Oceana's levels. The room is a throwback; its round yellow booths are reminiscent of 1960s New York Italian.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's New York City 2008, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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