PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

With a few tweaks, higher prices, and even more intriguing pairings, Anthos is Onera, the former Upper West Side restaurant helmed by chef/owner Michael Psilakis (Kefi), transplanted to a new location across from legendary 21 Club and in the heart of the power crowd of Midtown. With hostess and co-owner Donatella Arpaia, of David Burke & Donatella, Psilakis has a grand, albeit slick stage in which to showcase his immense talents. The only nods here to Greek traditional cuisine are the grilled octopus, Greek salad, and the side order of moussaka that comes with the perfectly prepared lamb chop loin. Psilakis's signature Greek "crudo," or raw mezes, yellowtail, diver scallops, and tuna, that were so popular at Onera, thankfully are on Anthos's menu. The sardine escabeche, a row of properly briny, fresh from the sea, sardines, each on a sliver of cucumber along with the potato and garlic skorkalia soup, not really a soup at all, and the above-mentioned octopus are more than enough to make your meal. But a meal of only the mezes and you would miss out on such entrees as the whole, simply grilled, bursting with meat loup de mer, served boned but with the head included, or the tantalizing crispy turbot with eggplant puree. Desserts are irresistible; don't miss the sesame ice cream encased in a halvah shell. Service is first rate, and it better be considering the location and the price you are paying.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's New York City 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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