PRICE:
Frommer's Exceptional

The restaurant, located in the bottom of a glass tower on East 55th Street, is designed in sleek Scandinavian style with modernist furniture. In the front of the restaurant is an informal and less-expensive cafe, while past a long bar is the dining room. The smoked fish -- all the fish -- is prepared perfectly. I daydream about the herring plate: four types of herring accompanied by a tiny glass of aquavit, distilled liquor not unlike vodka flavored with fruit and spices, and a frosty Carlsberg beer. The hot smoked Arctic char on the main a la carte menu, served with clams and bean puree in a mustard green broth, is also a winner. Most fixed-price menus offer a well-chosen beverage accompaniment option.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's New York City 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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