PRICE:
Frommer's Highly Recommended

Bread Tribeca is one of the few restaurants in New York to feature the cuisine of Italy's Liguria region. What is Ligurian cuisine? Seafood is a big part of it, and Bread Tribeca does a good job with its fritto misto, a mixture of fried fish (such as calamari, cod, and mussels) and vegetables; and its zuppa de pesce, assorted seafood in a saffron-tomato sauce. Homemade pastas are another trademark of Ligurian food, and at Bread Tribeca you'll find pansotti, ravioli-like dumplings served with a walnut sauce; and fresh taglierini, a spaghetti-like pasta that's slightly overwhelmed by the dense combination of haricots verts, potatoes, and a surprisingly subtle pesto. A wood-burning oven turns out excellent thin-crust pizzas and roasted meats and, like its sister restaurant (Bread), the breads are superb, including a remarkable combination of sardine, tomato, and peperoncini slathered on a baguette. Most of the tables are communal, so if the restaurant is crowded, don't expect intimacy; and the 50-inch television that runs movies (when I was there last, Chocolat) is often a distraction, not a complement, to the food. On weekends a deejay spins calming, low-key music to accompany the rustic food.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's New York City 2008, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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