PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

Supervised by chef Geoffrey Zakarian, the chef of the popular and acclaimed Town restaurant, it's hard to believe that this stunningly elegant, urbane restaurant in the recently renovated Hotel Carlton could be the "Country" in Zakarian's Town/Country duo. There's really nothing country about the place. And that's not a knock. Gorgeously designed by architect David Rockwell, the restaurant's magnificent centerpiece is the restored 200-square-foot Tiffany skylight dome that was hidden over the years by a dropped ceiling. Zakarian's prix-fixe menu changes every other week and matches the decor's sophisticated style. When I visited for an early spring dinner, warm asparagus in a light lemon vinaigrette was an outstanding first-course option while the lamb cannelloni (tender pieces of shredded lamb in a wonton-thin dumpling) made the perfect second-course accompaniment. Of the third-course options, the striped bass with crushed herbs, potatoes, and clams was the standout. A selection of cheeses is offered as a dessert option and it's hard to resist. Downstairs are the more countrified, darker, wood-paneled booths of Café at Country.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's New York City 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Find Hotel Deals on Yahoo Travel»