PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

This Roman-style osteria is always a hot ticket. For one, it's blessed with an impeccable pedigree: One of its owners is Mario Batali, who has built a mini-empire in the Manhattan restaurant world. Second, it offers high-quality food at good value -- you can eat well here and not have to max out your credit card. And finally, the food is consistently tasty. Don't expect big portions -- that's part of the secret to the good value -- but don't worry, you won't starve. The menu is thoughtful and creative, focusing on lusty Roman fare such as ricotta gnocchi with sausage and fennel, or pork saltimbocca. Wines, too, have been thoughtfully chosen, and you can order a bottle from the extensive list or sample one of several varieties that come in a carafe. Here, perhaps more than at any other Batali enterprise, the service hits just the right notes: Servers are warm and supremely knowledgeable. Make a reservation, or go early to snag one of the tables set aside for walk-ins.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's New York City 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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