PRICE:
Frommer's Highly Recommended

Named after Nice's major newspaper, appropriately you'll find such Provençal classics as pistou, pissaladiere, and velouté of mussels on the menu. You'll also find innovations such as the creamy, delicious fava-bean tortelloni, moist grilled sea bass with artichokes stewed in olive oil, and a rich daube of beef short ribs with chickpea fries. There are specials daily; and on Monday, normally not a great day to dine out, the aioli monstre is featured -- salt cod, shrimp, meats, and vegetables accompanied by a tangy, fresh aioli. On any day you can order the five-napkin burger, also accompanied by that pleasingly persistent aioli. If cholesterol is no concern, opt for the decadently dense sweet-and-sour cream for dessert. Located in the Lucerne hotel, the restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, is loud and busy, so unless you can snare a comfortable booth, don't expect intimacy.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's New York City 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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