PRICE:
Frommer's Highly Recommended

There is no shortage of Italian restaurants on the Upper East Side, but strength is not always in numbers and many are mediocre at best. There is nothing, however, mediocre about Paola's, and having survived and thrived in the neighborhood for over 12 years is testament to the restaurant's quality and charms. The charm begins with Paola herself, almost always present and always the gracious host. The two dining rooms are comforting and inviting; the larger centered around a wood-burning oven used to cook many of the restaurant's meat dishes, the other the smaller, but cozy, wine room. Most appealing of all is the menu. Hope that Paola has found baby artichokes the day you visit because you will want to begin with the carciofi alla Giudea, artichokes prepared in the style of the Roman Jews -- cooked twice and addictively crispy. The pastas are usually homemade; the pappardelle with a duck-meat ragu is a standout, while the hand-rolled trofie served with pesto is a Paola's specialty. The stinco d'agnello, slow-roasted lamb shank with sage and parmesan polenta, is a hearty main course that is roasted in the wood burning oven, as are the naturally raised, corn-fed poussins, served with potato gratin and sautéed greens. Fig ice cream topped with port-soaked figs is the decadent way to finish your meal.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's New York City 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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