PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

Don't be misled by the word grill: This is not a fast-food hamburger joint, but a chic rendezvous. Hip, sophisticated, and unwaveringly upscale, this is a posh but artfully battered neighborhood restaurant, near the Royal Palace, whose clients just happen to have included the crown prince of Norway. There are well-defined rules at this place: Begin with a drink in the high-ceilinged, cowboy rock-'n'-roll bar, which attracts both young-at-heart divorcees and status-conscious young singles. The restaurant, which lies across from the bar within a building that functioned long ago as an elementary school, contains only eight tables and a tiny kitchen, which bustles with a barely controlled creative frenzy. It works like this: Everything is made fresh for the day of your arrival, from scallops with burnt butter sauce and fresh ginger, to rare-cooked tuna with glazed beets, to breast of duck with red-wine-and-duck-stock sauce. Menu courses each cost 100NOK ($15/£8.20), and although the restaurant recommends that eight of them comprise a complete meal, you can stop them anytime that you've had enough. If you absolutely can't handle the long wait at the bar for a table, and if you insist on an advance reservation, you'll be eased into a satellite dining room, with its more conventional four-course menu.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Norway, 4th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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