PRICE:
Frommer's Highly Recommended

There's something weighty about this historical monument; every mayor of Paris has dined here since the restaurant was founded in 1912 by the grandfather of the present owner. He's one of the last bistrotiers who occasionally purchases Beaujolais in casks and then bottles it in his own cellars. The setting is theatrical, and the service can be attentive or arrogant, depending on a delicate chemistry that only longtime fans of this place understand. Prices are higher than you'd expect for bistro fare, but it all seems part of the self-satisfied norm here, and clients keep coming back for more. The satisfying cuisine is full of flavor, based on time-tested classics. Traditional crowd-pleasers include filet de sole Nantua; snails served in their shells with garlic butter; slow-cooked pot roast with carrots; and cassoulet, a white-bean-and-pork dish.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Paris 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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