PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

Long story short: This is where the suits go to dine -- and drink. Chef Chris Scarduzio is responsible for the international twist on classic French dishes. Steak frites at the popular bar may cost $16, but don't expect bargains throughout. The 88-seat dining rooms serves lip-smacking roast chicken with forest mushrooms and brie risotto, and rack of lamb with chorizo and dried tomatoes. Lunchtime favorites include frisee salad topped with a poached egg, and classic French onion soup. The wine list features small, quality-oriented French, Italian, and U.S. varietals in the $35-to-$75 range, with specially priced gems from southern France. The Art Deco decor is handsome enough, though apparently based on a retro-cubist version of Marcel Duchamp's Nude Descending a Staircase.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Philadelphia and the Amish Country, 15th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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