PRICE:
Frommer's Recommended

Within a pair of cramped dining rooms, you'll be served by a cheerful staff that's well practiced in hauling steaming platters of food. The simple white-painted walls accented by dark timbers and panels are a nice background to the flavorful dishes that stream from the busy kitchens of Giuliano Brenna. Look for elaborate antipasti such as quail and watercress in a "Parmesan basket," or smoked sturgeon on a salad of Belgian endive with black olives. You might follow with handmade ravioli filled with sea bass, lettuce, and a sauvignon sauce; or a zesty oxtail soup with artichoke hearts au gratin. Other imaginative dishes include orecchiette pasta with eggplant, bacon, and smoked ricotta; or guinea fowl breast with a flavoring of orange and green tea. The restaurant's name, incidentally, translates as "cooked donkey meat," but don't look for that on the menu anytime soon.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Rome, 19th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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