PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

Each time we cross the threshold of this deluxe restaurant is a pleasure. This is one of the Old Town's most stylish and fashionable restaurants, noted for its fine cuisine and the quality of its service. From the small, street-level bar where you can order a before-dinner drink, patrons descend into the intimately lit cellar (the restaurant was built around a medieval defense tower). To reach this restaurant, you need to negotiate a labyrinth of brick passageways through the Victory Hotel. Dishes often arrive at your table looking like works of art, and some of the country's finest produce appears on the menus. We recommend that you start with langoustine on pearl barley with a warm shellfish jelly and juniper-smoked parsnips; the terrine of Swedish duck liver in apple jelly with hazelnuts in plum marmalade; or the Seville orange salad, which surprisingly comes with crisps of a pig's ear. All the main dishes are a model of elegance and flavor, especially the seaweed-fried cod with a pea and oyster purée, spider crab, and a smoked shrimp foam. It probably took hours to prepare. For dessert, we opted for the dewberry pudding with molasses and a cream cheese mousse, delectably set off with a saffron croustade with buttermilk foam.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Sweden, 6th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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