PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

This narrow dining room has long been one of my favorite hidden gems in Venice (and it is, indeed, very hard to find), even if prices have tripled in the past few years. Aside from the friendly service (the owner usually sits and chats with the last few diners at the end of the evening) and excellent cooking, this place sells itself on being perhaps the only restaurant in Venice with no seafood. Primi are limited and sound standard -- spaghetti with tomatoes and artichokes, or alla siciliana with mozzarella, eggplant, and tomatoes -- but they are perfectly prepared. Secondi include stracetti di filetto alla rucola (beef strips tossed with torn arugula), filetto al pepe verde (steak in a green-peppercorn sauce), and veal scaloppine. It has fewer than 10 tables, so book ahead.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Northern Italy, 4th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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