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Jenny Lou's (Tianshun Chaoshi)
Beijing
Similar to April Gourmet, though with a less impressive cheese and bread selection, Jenny's empire continues to expand, with six outlets in total. The best branches are at Sanlitun Bei Xiao Jie and Chaoyang Park. Open daily 7am to 10pm.Similar to April Gourmet, though with a less impressive cheese

Jenny Lou's (Tianshun Chaoshi)
Beijing
Similar to April Gourmet, though with a less impressive cheese and bread selection, Jenny's empire continues to expand, with six outlets in total. The best branches are at Sanlitun Bei Xiao Jie and Chaoyang Park. Open daily 7am to 10pm.Similar to April Gourmet, though with a less impressive cheese

Lao Fan Jie Fuzhuang Shichang (Alien's Street)
Beijing
It's hard to imagine anything more chaotic than the original Yabao Lu Market, but this brushed-down version comes close. It is impossible not to get lost. The first floor houses shoes, shoes, and more shoes, which mercifully come in sizes suitable for Western feet. Cheap, expansive, and often nasty, this market is popular with Russian traders. Open daily 9:30am to 6pm.It's hard to imagine anything more chaotic than the original

Lu Ban Gudian Jiaju Cheng
Beijing
Just east of town, Gaobeidian -- one of the largest antique furniture markets in China -- is one of Beijing's best-kept secrets. Lu Ban was the first shop to open at the location in 1991, but it's remarkable that over a decade later so few locals know of its existence. This outlet is the most reliable of the many furniture stores in Gaobeidian. But if you know what you're looking for, the real bargains can be found in small workshops opened by enterprising peasants from Shandong, Shanxi, and Anhui. At least half of the merchandise is bogus, and any furniture marked with a tag that says TIBETAN should be regarded as counterfeit until proven otherwise. Open daily 8am to 6pm.Just east of town, Gaobeidian -- one of the largest

Malian Dao
Beijing
This might not be all the tea in China, but with over a mile of shops hawking tea leaves and tea paraphernalia, it feels like it. Shops are run by the families of tea growers from Fujian and Zhejiang, and many rate this friendly street as the highlight of their visit. The four-story Tea City (Cha Cheng), halfway down the street, is a pleasant spot to start. Black tea (hong cha) and Pu'er tea (sold in round briquettes, a tea that improves with age) are usually sold by the same vendors. The Beijing outlet of Menghai Chachang (ext. 8165), at the south end of the first floor, stocks exquisite black tea. Oolong tea (wulong cha) is usually encountered in the West in substandard form: Here is the genuine article. There is such a wide range of flavors -- from flowery gaoshan to caffeine-laden tie guanyin, from milky jinxuan to the sweet aftertaste of renshen (ginseng) -- that most shoppers find a brew to suit. Try Taiwan Tianbaoyang Mingcha (ext. 8177), on the west side of Tea City's first floor. Ceramic and cloisonné tea sets are the other big draw. Ziyu Taofang (tel. 010/6327-5268), on the east side of the second floor, sells fine pots and cups molded from Yixing clay. Bargain hunters should visit Jingmin Chacheng, an older wholesale market, further south on the same side of the street. Open daily 8:30am to 7pm.This might not be all the tea in China, but

Malian Dao Sheying Qicai Cheng
Beijing
Located on the top floor of Malian Dao Tea City is a cluster of secondhand camera shops. Hongsheng Sheying Fuwu Zhongxin, on the north side, has the widest range of gear and the best repair service. Open daily 9am to 7pm.Located on the top floor of Malian Dao Tea City

Nei Lian Sheng Xiedian
Beijing
Cloth-soled "thousand layer happy shoes" (qianceng buxie), loved by martial arts stars and aging Communist leaders alike, are hard to find. Cheaper plastic-soled shoes are taking their place. A workshop behind this shop, founded in 1853, still turns them out; these shoes are well stitched and very comfortable. There are also some gorgeous women's shoes, modeled on Qing fashions. Fortunately, they are now available in larger sizes. Bargaining is fruitless. Open daily from 9am to 9pm.Cloth-soled "thousand layer happy shoes" (qianceng buxie), loved by martial

Oriental Plaza (Dongfang Xin Tiandi)
Beijing
Asia's second-largest shopping complex stretches from Wangfujing to Dong Dan (the largest is Golden Resources Mall, an empty shopping complex in the west of town). Supplanting the world's biggest McDonald's, the project was backed by Hong Kong billionaire Li Ka-Hsing. The two-story arcade houses hip clothing stores such as Art of Shirts and Kookai; the Wangfujing Paleolithic Museum; and another Ole supermarket. The Grand Hyatt stands above all the consumption. In summer, it is open daily 9:30am to 10:30pm; winter daily 9:30am to 10pm.Asia's second-largest shopping complex stretches from Wangfujing to Dong Dan

Pacific Century Place
Beijing
This department store is packed with familiar brand names like Nine West, Hush Puppies, Esprit, and Columbia. Expat and local mommies swear by the toy selection on the 6th floor. It is located a short block east of Yashow, and is a great place to shop for authentic labels in a sterile, hassle-free environment. Open daily 10am to 10pm.This department store is packed with familiar brand names like

Plastered T-Shirts
Beijing
Simply the best place to get a quirky, original souvenir T-shirt. A British-Canadian couple opened the store over a year ago, and it is going strong. Shirts bear cute designs like "I heart Beijing," as well as some nods to Beijing life like the blown-up label of Ergoutou, a 56 proof rice wine that sells for less than $2. Their newest collection features designs inspired by the Olympic games and the artistry of Cultural Revolution posters. Open daily 10am till 10pm.Simply the best place to get a quirky, original souvenir

Pyongyang Art Studio
Beijing
More disturbing than odd, this tiny shop, opened by a Brit who has been traveling to the DPRK since 1993, is crammed with North Korean goods and socialist realist art. Cultural Revolution kitsch, while in questionable taste, has some distance to it. This is more confronting: There are anti-U.S. tracts, and paeans to the Dear Leader, Kim Il-Sung, the only man to card a perfect 18 in a round of golf. His love of cinema is described in "Great Man and Cinema," while "A Great Mind" celebrates his father, Kim Jong-Il. There are propaganda posters (many hand-painted), magazines, flags, T-shirts, cigarettes, and even North Korean hooch. Compelling. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm. More disturbing than odd, this tiny

Qian Men Carpet Factory
Beijing
Most modern Chinese carpets are testaments to what azo compounds are capable of if they fall into the wrong hands. Fortunately, the carpets in this dusty basement emporium (which was once a bomb shelter) are largely antiques. Rugs from Gansu and Ningxia in northwest China feature swastikas, dragons, phoenixes, and auspicious symbols, and are free of alarming pinks and oranges. Antiques include Tibetan prayer rugs, Xinjiang yurt rugs, and Mongolian saddle rugs, all handmade using natural dyes. The factory also makes antique "reproductions" and Henan silk carpets. Cleaning and repair services are available. The factory is located at the back of the Chongwen Worker's Cultural Palace; follow the ANTIQUE CARPETS signs. Open daily 9:30am to 5:30pm.Most modern Chinese carpets are testaments to what azo compounds

Qian Men Zixingche Shangdian
Beijing
One of Beijing's largest bike stores is handily located a short walk south of Qian Men. It's dominated by new brands, such as Giant and Strong. However, you can still find some old-style Forever (Yongjiu) bicycles. Sadly, there's not a Flying Pigeon in sight. Open daily 8:30am to 6:30pm.One of Beijing's largest bike stores is handily located a

Red Gate Gallery (Hong Men Hualang)
Beijing
Opened by the delightfully camp Brian Wallace in the early 1990s, Red Gate has regular exhibitions featuring the work of its dozen or so artists. The Dongbian Men watchtower (admission ¥5/65¢/35p) provides an airy and atmospheric viewing space. Open daily 10am to 5pm.Opened by the delightfully camp Brian Wallace in the early

Ri Tan Shangwu Lou
Beijing
Not as cheap as Yaxiu, but a far more pleasant experience. If you lack the patience to wade through cheap copies of designer clothing in search of the genuine (or near-genuine) item at the markets listed above, or simply wouldn't be seen dead wearing such clothes, then swan on down to Ritan Office Building. From outside, it looks like an uninspiring office building, but inside is shopping nirvana: more than 70 shops stocking high-quality women's clothing, footwear, and accessories. There is a smattering of shops for the chaps, too. Open daily 10am till 8pm.Not as cheap as Yaxiu, but a far more pleasant

Ruifuxiang Choubu Dian
Beijing
You'll find piles of gorgeous silk brocade at this store, in the trade for 110 years. They specialize in qipao, a body-hugging one-piece dress for ¥500 ($67/£33) and up. It takes 1 week to tailor, with a couple of fittings. If you're pushed for time, they can complete it in 2 days for an additional charge. They also have an outlet at Wangfujing Dajie 190 (tel. 010/6525-0764), just north of Gongmei Dasha. Aim to bargain 30% to 50% off the marked prices. Open daily 9am to 10pm in summer; 9am to 9pm in winter.You'll find piles of gorgeous silk brocade at this store,

Sanfu Huwai Yongpin (Sanfo Outdoors)
Beijing
This shop began life as an outdoor club at Peking University, and has a dedicated following among students and young professionals. Unlike the knockoffs for sale at Hong Qiao and elsewhere, Sanfo only stocks the genuine article, and most products come with a warranty. They have their own line of sleeping bags, and still organize weekend trips to the wilderness around Beijing. There are branches in Jin Zhi Qiao Dasha west of Guomao, and northwest of Peking University. Open daily 9am to 8pm.This shop began life as an outdoor club at Peking

Sanlian Taofen Tushu Zhongxin
Beijing
Come here for the most interesting selection of Chinese-language books in Beijing, although Wansheng Shudian, south of Qinghua University in Haidian, runs a close second. There's a quiet cafe on the second floor, but most patrons prefer the stairwell. Open daily 9am to 9pm.Come here for the most interesting selection of Chinese-language books

Sanwei Shuwu
Beijing
Public outrage spared Beijing's original "dissident bookstore" from being converted into a patch of lawn in 2002. Downstairs is a small bookstore with a few English-language titles. Upstairs is a tranquil, traditional teahouse, ideal for a quiet read during the day. Open daily 10am to 10pm.Public outrage spared Beijing's original "dissident bookstore" from being converted

Shard Box Store (Shendege Gongyipin)
Beijing
The wall of JCB, Amex, and Visa credit-card stickers on the front door are fair warning -- you aren't the first to discover this charming jewelry shop. The shard boxes -- supposedly made from fragments of porcelain vessels smashed during the Cultural Revolution -- are gorgeous. The rather more ordinary jewelry is a mixture of colorful curiosities gathered from Mongolian and Tibetan regions, and pieces crafted in nearby workshops. Jewelry can also be made to order. Open daily 9am to 7pm.The wall of JCB, Amex, and Visa credit-card stickers on

Shin Kong Place (Xin Guang Tiandi)
Beijing
Shin Kong Place sets the gold standard in Beijing luxury shopping. Newly opened in spring 2007, this indoor mall has all the labels that break the bank: Coach, Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Marc Jacobs, as well as high-end but more affordable retailers like Anya Hindmarch, Juicy Couture, Diesel, and Club Monaco. Open daily 10am to 10pm.Shin Kong Place sets the gold standard in Beijing luxury

Shine
Beijing
A funky new store that lies just around the corner from, unfortunately, Beijing's Hooters restaurant, this is one of Beijing's most interesting multi-brand stores. They carry a small collection of the latest designs from high-end, cult labels like Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons, DSquared, and even Alaïa. But be forewarned: Everything is real, there's no bargaining, and prices are steep. Open daily noon to 9:30pm.A funky new store that lies just around the corner

Su Ren
Beijing
This place carries fantastic leather goods. It is our favorite place to buy quality bags and shoes that aren't knockoffs or cheap fakes. Styles are original and quirky, like leather gladiator-style sandals embellished with horse hair, or slender leather wallets tied together with silk string looped through a jade stone. Open daily 9:30am to 10pm.This place carries fantastic leather goods. It is our favorite

Su Ren
Beijing
This place carries fantastic leather goods. It is our favorite place to buy quality bags and shoes that aren't knockoffs or cheap fakes. Styles are original and quirky, like leather gladiator-style sandals embellished with horse hair, or slender leather wallets tied together with silk string looped through a jade stone. Open daily 9:30am to 10pm.This place carries fantastic leather goods. It is our favorite

Su Ren
Beijing
This place carries fantastic leather goods. It is our favorite place to buy quality bags and shoes that aren't knockoffs or cheap fakes. Styles are original and quirky, like leather gladiator-style sandals embellished with horse hair, or slender leather wallets tied together with silk string looped through a jade stone. Open daily 9:30am to 10pm.This place carries fantastic leather goods. It is our favorite

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Frommer's Beijing, 5th Edition