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3501 PLA Surplus Store (3501 Gongchang)
Beijing
The official disposal store of the world's largest army is a delightful mix of fur-lined boots, army greatcoats, and kitsch Communist memorabilia. Where else will you find Lei Feng hats, sturdy compasses and binoculars, and waist watches commemorating the 50th anniversary of liberation? Open daily 9am to 5:30pm. The official disposal store of the

April Gourmet
Beijing
This place carries excellent fresh fruits and vegetables, with decent cheese, bread, and wine selections. They will deliver within 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) for purchases over ¥50 ($6.65/£3.35). Their best-stocked branch is opposite On/Off. Open daily 8am to midnight.This place carries excellent fresh fruits and vegetables, with decent

April Gourmet
Beijing
This place carries excellent fresh fruits and vegetables, with decent cheese, bread, and wine selections. They will deliver within 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) for purchases over ¥50 ($6.65/£3.35). Their best-stocked branch is opposite On/Off. Open daily 8am to midnight.This place carries excellent fresh fruits and vegetables, with decent

Bai Nao Hui
Beijing
Less dodgy and easier to reach than Zhongguan Cun, this four-story amalgam of stores sells computers, digital cameras, and accessories. Software is not sold inside, but a gaggle of gentlemen from Anhui loitering outside greet you with a chorus of "Hello. CD-ROM!" Open daily 9am to 8pm.Less dodgy and easier to reach than Zhongguan Cun, this

Bannerman Tang's Toys and Crafts (Shengtang Xuan)
Beijing
A world away from the baubles produced in the sweatshops of Shenzhen, this tiny shop offers delightful handcrafted toys. It's run by fifth-generation toymaker Tang Yujie and stocked with a delightful collection of figurines, paper lanterns, and other childish delights made from wood, clay, paper, and cloth. Toys depict scenes from old Beijing -- the street barber, the fortune teller, and old men playing chess. Beijing opera figurines betray influences from Japanese manga. Open daily 9am to 7pm.A world away from the baubles produced in the sweatshops

Beijing Gongmei Dasha
Beijing
The third-floor stalls stock all varieties of jade, from green Khotanese nephrite to Burmese jadeite. They're terribly popular with Hong Kong visitors. Count on paying no more than a third of the marked price. Open daily 9am to 9pm.The third-floor stalls stock all varieties of jade, from green

Beijing Sheying Qicai Cheng
Beijing
Beijing's largest camera market has a bewildering array of equipment -- one shop only sells lens filters! If you're looking for the old, obscure parts they just don't make any more, you'll find them here. Competition between vendors is fierce. Open daily 9am to 4:30pm.Beijing's largest camera market has a bewildering array of equipment

Beijing Sichou Dian (Beijing Silk Store)
Beijing
Tucked away in a narrow hutong just west of and running parallel with Qian Men Dajie, this bustling store is said to date from 1840. Prices for tailoring and raw materials are affordable. Open daily 9am to 7:30pm.Tucked away in a narrow hutong just west of and

Beijing Yangguang Yunzhi Shudian
Beijing
An essential stop for those looking to develop an appreciation (or at least an understanding) of Peking Opera. Located next to the People's Theater, this tiny shop is crammed with DVDs and CDs featuring Peking opera's leading man, Mei Lanfang. Traditionally, only three instruments were essential -- the ubiquitous two-stringed erhu; its smaller cousin, the jinghuu; and the banjolike yueqiin. Elegant handmade versions of all three are found here. Lessons can be arranged. Open daily 8am to 6:30pm.An essential stop for those looking to develop an appreciation

Beijing Yinyue Shudian
Beijing
At this store, located just to the east of the north end of the Wangfujing pedestrian mall, the top floor has a large range of sheet music at prices far cheaper than in the West. Composers' names are in Chinese, of course, but names are transliterated (Beethoven becomes Beiduofen, Liszt is rendered as Lisite), so you may be able to make yourself understood. If not, names are often written in English above the scores. 1/F open daily 9am to 10:30pm, 2/F-4/F open to 9pm only.At this store, located just to the east of the

Botao Haute Couture (Botao Gaojishi Zhuang Zhan)
Beijing
Head to Botao if you want to order high-quality, original Chinese designs. The store employs a team of young Chinese designers, several of whom studied abroad in fashion hotspots like Paris, and most clothing is made-to-order. You get to chose from the store's fantastic fabric collection. Allow yourself several weeks for fittings.Head to Botao if you want to order high-quality, original

Cana Cloth and Clothes
Beijing
This store adds a bit of sophistication to Nan Luogu Xiang. The interior is all open spaces and minimalist chic. About two dozen shirts and pants are sparsely hung on a couple racks that line one corner. The pieces are original and produced by a team of Beijing designers. Mostly it's solid color linen basics like white shirts or tunics. They've also got colorful pants that clearly draw on the fisherman pant style loved by backpackers the world over. Open Monday through Friday from 4 to 10pm and Saturday and Sunday from 4 to 10:30pm.This store adds a bit of sophistication to Nan Luogu

China World Trade Center Shopping Center (Zhongguo Guoji Maoyi Zhongxin)
Beijing
Usually simply called "Guomao," this three-level mall caters to foreign business travelers and expatriate families. The ground level of China World contains airline offices, American Express, a food court, and Beijing's first (but now far from only) Starbucks. There are stores such as Louis Vuitton and Jack and Jones, as well as a CRC Supermarket and a specialty wine shop. Open daily 9:30am to 9:30pm.Usually simply called "Guomao," this three-level mall caters to foreign

Daxin Fangzhi Gongsi
Beijing
It might not be as prestigious as other tailors, but with hand-tailored qipao typically costing less than ¥200 ($27/£13), it's impossible to argue with the price. Right next door to Yoshinoya Dairy Queen. Open daily 8:30am to 8pm.It might not be as prestigious as other tailors, but

Decathalon
Beijing
A place to get the real stuff -- we think. This is basically an outlet of the sporty French retailer. It has everything for the outdoors, from tents to hiking boots, at significantly lower prices than what you would find back home. And for the ladies, this is the only place in Beijing where we have found non-padded sports bras. Open Monday through Thursday from 9am to 9pm, and weekends until 10pm.A place to get the real stuff -- we think.

East Gallery (Yisen Hualang)
Beijing
Although quality varies, the East Gallery is the best of the locally run modern art galleries. The backdrop is magnificent, as you clamber up the narrow stairwells of the Desheng Men arrow tower. You can visit the Ancient Coin Exhibition Hall downstairs. Open daily 9am to 5:30pm.Although quality varies, the East Gallery is the best of

Exception de Mixmind
Beijing
Exceptional indeed. This Guangzhou-based store offers an original selection of women's clothing using high-quality knitwear, funky linens, and soft cottons. The designs all play off basic, conventional designs. A floor length loose-knit sweater is topped with a gigantic hood, or simple tank tops come with a skewed neckline. Definitely a place to check out if you're looking to support innovative Chinese design. Open daily 9:30am to 9:30pm.Exceptional indeed. This Guangzhou-based store offers an original selection of

Foreign Language Bookstore (Waiwen Shudian)
Beijing
A few years ago, China's strict censorship laws restricted the stock in this bookstore to boring Western classics. Nowadays, we're happy to find the latest bestsellers, novels by Haruki Murakami, and good biographies alongside classics by the likes of Jane Austen. Open daily 9am to 9pm.A few years ago, China's strict censorship laws restricted the

Friendship Store (Youyi Shangdian)
Beijing
Friendship Stores were once the only places where locals and foreigners alike could purchase imported goodies. You even needed "foreign exchange currency" to obtain the viciously overpriced merchandise. This is the largest store, and it was recently spared demolition when plans for a high-rise complex caused a stir among nearby embassies, but its days are numbered. You can bargain for their overpriced wares, but it's really not worth your while. Starbucks, Baskin-Robbins, Délifrance, and Pizza Hut are all here, and the first-floor bookshop stocks a decent range of English-language magazines. Open daily 9am to 8:30pm.Friendship Stores were once the only places where locals and

Full Link Plaza (Fenglian Guangchang)
Beijing
This spacious mall is a collection of chic foreign and local chain stores. The first floor has a Watson's Drug Store, there's a Kenny Roger's Roasters Restaurant on the fourth floor, and Air France is on the fifth floor. On the first floor is Beijing's most lavish Starbucks. Park 'N' Shop in the basement has been replaced by a lively market, where you'll find last season's clothes at affordable prices. Open daily 10:30am to 9:30pm.This spacious mall is a collection of chic foreign and

Geng Xiang
Beijing
With a survey finding that more than half of Beijing's teas have traces of pesticides or heavy metals, organic teas are a sensible choice. The largest retailer of organic tea in Beijing, Geng Xiang, survived the scandal with its reputation enhanced. Their green tea (lu cha) is among the best in China. Open daily 8:30am to 9pm.With a survey finding that more than half of Beijing's

Gong'anbu Diyi Yanjiusuo
Beijing
More Get Smart than James Bond, the commercial outlet of the "No. 1 Police Research Unit" is a bizarre example of socialist marketization. Aside from a range of authentic Chinese police gear -- bulletproof vests, sturdy boots -- there's a full range of dated surveillance equipment, including nifty spy pens. Suspicious (often with good reason) wives are said to be their main clients. Open daily 9am to 5:30pm.More Get Smart than James Bond, the commercial outlet of

Guang Han Tang
Beijing
Set in a delightful courtyard house constructed from the ruins of a derelict factory, all of Guang Han Tang's pieces could be described as partially restored, as they maintain a feeling of antiquity. Furniture made from fir (shanmu) and elm (yumu) is disparagingly referred to as "firewood" (chaimu) by the locals, though the sturdiness of the latter wood is recognized in the expression for a die-hard traditionalist, yumu naodai, literally "elm brain." Furniture made from rosewood (zitan or hongmu) commands a higher price. Prices are serious, but so is the owner, Mr. Liang. No fakes here. Open daily 9am to 6pm.Set in a delightful courtyard house constructed from the ruins

Hong Qiao Shichang
Beijing
Also known as the Pearl Market, has dozens of jewelry stalls (mostly pearls and jade) on its third and fourth floors. Unless you're an expert, this is not a place to make large purchases.Also known as the Pearl Market, has dozens of jewelry

International SOS
Beijing
Sure they charge high prices, but they are probably the safest place in town to purchase medicine. They have a good selection of familiar Western names. Open Monday through Friday from 8am to 8pm and Saturday and Sunday from 8:30am to 5:30pm.Sure they charge high prices, but they are probably the

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BOOK STORE
Frommer's Beijing, 5th Edition