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OVERVIEW HOTELS DINING ATTRACTIONS NIGHTLIFE Shopping

© Jerry Alexander

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Anongporn
Chiang Mai
This is one of the best shops for older hill-tribe crafts, particularly for textiles--though the wares are a little dusty. Their selection seems almost endless: intricately embroidered Hmong collars, colorful Akha jackets, baskets, and bags, Mien coats, and a small selection of silver jewelry (belts, bracelets, necklaces, and silver beads). The quality of their old and new goods seems to be higher than what you find at the typical market stalls, yet prices are comparable. Used appliqué and embroidered jackets sell for 800B to 2,500B ($32 to $100).

This is one of the best shops for older hill-tribe

Ban Phor Liang Meun's Terra Cotta Arts
Chiang Mai
This unusual store sells terra-cotta reproductions of Khmer, Indian, Burmese, Chinese, and Thai statuary of all sizes, from all periods, which are displayed in a handsome old teak house and garden just inside the Chiang Mai Gate. The work is highly detailed and appealing, in considerable variety, including Buddhas for 5,000B to 50,000B ($200 to $2,000). Owner Maliwan Maivun guarantees all their shipping and swears that her goods travel well.

This unusual store sells terra-cotta reproductions of Khmer, Indian, Burmese,

Bo Sang Umbrella Making Center
Chiang Mai
The hamlet of Bo Sang (also known as the Umbrella Village) is a craft center where you can watch women make bamboo and paper umbrellas, then hand-paint them with traditional Thai scenes or floral patterns. This shop/factory is typical of many, and will duplicate your design if you bring them a rough sketch.

The hamlet of Bo Sang (also known as the Umbrella

Chatraporn Thai Silk
Chiang Mai
This large shop has a particularly good collection of locally made cotton and silk garments (most incorporating panels of hill-tribe embroidery or appliqué work), plus old hill-tribe clothing and jewelry, and newly woven bags and pouches. Several items are sized and fit better than the big, one-size tops and slacks sold elsewhere. Cool, cotton dresses adorned with hill-tribe textile bodices cost 700B to 1000B ($28 to $40). Newly made evening jackets of mutmee, Thai silk ikat, start at 1,200 ($48).

This large shop has a particularly good collection of locally

Chiang Mai Silverware
Chiang Mai
The classic Patanaanunwong Company has a factory where you can watch silversmiths hammer and polish their work (most of it serving pieces and utilitarian items). The majority of goods are ornate and expensive--although tiny herb pots cost as little as 200B ($8). A single demitasse spoon goes for around 550B ($22), and picture frames run as high as 7,500B ($300).

The classic Patanaanunwong Company has a factory where you can

Chiang Mai Sudaluck Co.
Chiang Mai
One of the biggest furniture factories, Chiang Mai Sudaluck is located at the turnoff for the Bo Sang umbrella village. There's a huge selection of teak furniture; reproductions of Buddhas, seated, standing, and reclining; and a good collection of ornate, traditionally carved spirit houses (small ones start at $125).

One of the biggest furniture factories, Chiang Mai Sudaluck is

Chiang Mai Tusnaporn
Chiang Mai
Tusnaporn is one of the first teak factory/showrooms along the Sankamphaeng shopping strip. You can watch craftspeople fashioning the most intricate carving with simple hand chisels. Popular purchases include cocktail cabinets and elephants (sized from toys to tables). A heavy teak coffee table (masterfully carved with scenes from the Ramakien), will cost about $1,400 including packing and shipping.

Tusnaporn is one of the first teak factory/showrooms along the

Duangjitt House
Chiang Mai
Part of the Nanatawan Arcade, this three-story, contemporary teak house is the elegant gallery of Duangjitt Thaveesri, a distinguished woman who has spent her life collecting Thai and tribal clothing and Southeast Asian handwoven materials. Her small shop holds an impressive array of antique textiles, Cambodian and Thai "mutmee" silk ikat (sarong lengths start at 3,500B [$140]), paintings, and silver jewelry. Mrs Duangjitt numbers Princess Diana and Elizabeth Taylor among her many patrons. The house feels like a private museum, with her or her daughter, Ms. Chitlada, as your learned guides. Interested collectors are sometimes invited to the Thaveesri home to view even more valuable artworks and paintings, but must visit the shop first to discuss such a visit.

Part of the Nanatawan Arcade, this three-story, contemporary teak house

Gong Dee Ltd.
Chiang Mai
This elegant shop opposite the Nantawan Arcade displays the contemporary wood sculpture and painting of artist Vichit Chaiwong. Mr. Vichit, a trained painter from Sankamphaeng, has recently turned to carving rounded bowls, art sculpture, cups, decorative items, and even furniture from mango wood, then inlaying decorative hand-tooled pieces of nickel. The contrast between the polished golden wood and rough-hammered metal is interesting and unusual. Small cigarette boxes (some painted) start at 250B ($10); items range up to several hundred dollars for furniture and paintings.

This elegant shop opposite the Nantawan Arcade displays the contemporary

Hilltribe Products Promotion Center
Chiang Mai
This large shop near Wat Suan Dok is under the patronage of His Majesty the King, and was established to sell Akha, Karen, Yao, Hmong, Lisu, and Lahu crafts to provide an alternative income to poppy cultivation. Profits are used to fund handicraft training and the Border Patrol Police, who monitor the region's opium trade. There's a broad selection of silver jewelry (sold by weight at about 25B [$1] per gram), traditional costumes, bags, stylish mutmee jackets, finished pillow covers (from 150B to 350B [$6 to $14]), and many gift items--all reasonably priced and sold for a good cause.

This large shop near Wat Suan Dok is under the

John Gallery
Chiang Mai
The hand-painted T-shirts created by this local artist are imaginative and skillful, and his interpretations of 20th-century abstract and cubist masterpieces are especially appealing. Short- and long-sleeved, washable cotton T-shirts cost 250B to 5005B ($10 to $20).

The hand-painted T-shirts created by this local artist are imaginative

Maneesinn Antiques
Chiang Mai
Look here for traditional Thai, Chinese, and Burmese antiques. We were especially impressed with their exquisite lacquerware and baskets. The shop is small but has a good selection of decorative furniture (old lacquer khan toke tables cost 16,000B [$400]), wood carvings, and sculpture. There are many carrying baskets of finely woven vine, used by elegant Burmese ladies of another era, from 6,000B ($240).

Look here for traditional Thai, Chinese, and Burmese antiques. We

Mengrai Kilns
Chiang Mai
This attractive showroom, near the southwest corner of the Old City, contains the best collection of high-quality decorative objects, including vases, bowls, and lidded containers. Mengrai produces beautiful, handcrafted celadon and stoneware, with a large variety of traditional patterns, shapes, and a even few colors based on Chinese and Thai classics. Prices are considerably lower than the "antiques" in most shops. No credit cards, but personal checks are accepted.

This attractive showroom, near the southwest corner of the Old

Michi Gallery
Chiang Mai
This small shop on the top floor of the Nantawan Arcade gallery specializes in the craft of papermaking. Artisan Chitlada Thaveesri designs, and has manufactured locally, different grades of sa paper (mulberry bark), traditionally made to copy Buddhist scriptures. The cottonlike, off-white paper is sold in large sheets, bound into diaries and sketch pads (250B [$10]) with dried vines and silk cords, cut into foldout books for calligraphy, or made into stationery or gift cards (from 70B [$2.80]). Covers are often dyed or stamped or have rice kernels or wild flowers embedded in them. It's an impressive collection, with many reasonably priced items.

This small shop on the top floor of the Nantawan

Nandakwang
Chiang Mai
This branch of the popular Bangkok store sells first-rate goods of homespun Thai cotton and is a real treat for anyone interested in weaving. We found a lot of household items too pastel and decorative, but there's a huge selection of table linens (napkins start at only 20B [80¢]), and some conservatively styled, nubby cotton womens' clothing (wraparound skirts start at 1,000B [$40]). Their factory can be visited; it's in Lamphun at 330 Pasang Road (053/521001).

This branch of the popular Bangkok store sells first-rate goods

New Orchid Jade Factory
Chiang Mai
One of many shops with a wide variety of lacquered orchid jewelry. Petal earrings, which come in the most vivid (though natural) colors, are featherweight, perfect in this hot climate, and cost about 300B ($12) a pair. There's also beautiful jade jewelry and carved standing pieces, exported to Gumps in San Francisco, among others. Although the Chinese and traditional Thais prefer green jade, the superior Burmese jade or jadeite (as opposed to nephrite, Chinese jade) comes in shades of gold, white, red, or lilac. A well-cut pendant costs anywhere from $150. Rubies, sapphires, and semiprecious stones are sold here.

One of many shops with a wide variety of lacquered

P. N. Precious Stones
Chiang Mai
The only precious gems dealer that our sources would recommend without hesitation, P.N. is known for the quality of stones, workmanship of the settings, and reasonable prices. They have an especially good collection of Burmese rubies. (If you're only making one jewelry purchase, shop around in Bangkok, where you'll have much greater variety and the bargaining power that comes from several nearby competitors.)

The only precious gems dealer that our sources would recommend

Shinawatra Thai Silk
Chiang Mai
This is an outlet of the high-quality Bangkok chain, rivaled only by Jim Thompson's in Bangkok. Shinawatra sells handwoven and hand-painted silk and cotton by the meter, a wide range of men's and women's conservative silk fashions, cushions, drapery, ties, and dozens of silk accessories; it also does custom tailoring. A man's aloha shirt in brightly patterned silk costs 1,400B ($56). One square meter (1.2 square yards) of two-ply silk is 600B ($24); upholstery-grade silk 750B ($30).

This is an outlet of the high-quality Bangkok chain, rivaled

Siam Silverware
Chiang Mai
This is one of the oldest and largest dealers. There's a huge selection of new tableware and serving pieces (some in beautiful, traditional Thai designs) and a few decorative objects, plus a variety of well-priced jewelry. Prices are based on weight and workmanship.

This is one of the oldest and largest dealers. There's

Sipsong Panna
Chiang Mai
The finest collection of hill-tribe silverware and folk jewelry can be found at this small, crowded Nantawan Arcade shop. The handiwork of Tai, Burmese, Chinese, and Laotian artisans is a browser's delight. There are dozens of old, hand-beaten serving bowls, jars, and other useful objects, as well as intricately fashioned ornaments, beads, pipes, and accessories. Shop around before you come here, so you have a sense of local prices for newly made goods, then bargain.

The finest collection of hill-tribe silverware and folk jewelry can

Studio Naenna
Chiang Mai
Patricia Cheesman Naenna, the internationally known textile expert and author of books on Thai textiles, makes long, blousy jackets of originally designed silk ikat (priced for export at 3,500B [$140] each). They're gorgeous and extremely wearable, as are her dresses, fitted skirts, range of pants styles for women, and muted silk-ikat shirts for men--all made in her own workshops. She also keeps a collection of traditional silk-ikat patterns available in the large widths good for Western tailoring at 1,100B ($44) per meter. Handsome leather-trimmed silk-ikat attaché cases go for 550B ($22) and scarves start at 500B ($20). Everything here is selectively chosen, and the atmosphere of the place (one block south of the Nantawan Arcade and parallel to Huai Kaeo Road) is refreshingly serene. One of our favorites.

Patricia Cheesman Naenna, the internationally known textile expert and author

Thai Celadon Kilns
Chiang Mai
This showroom specializes in tableware, though there are some decorative items. Seconds are also on sale. If you avoid the noon to 1pm lunch break, you can watch the many steps of celadon making. Craftspeople, all trained at this kiln, work in open wood sheds to prepare the clay, shape it on a potter's wheel (or mold pieces that cannot be hand-sculpted), incise it with traditional patterns, and leave it to dry. Within a few days, preliminary firing prepares the clay for the lustrous greenish glaze that marks it as celadon.

This showroom specializes in tableware, though there are some decorative

Thai Shop
Chiang Mai
In the back, you can watch the manufacture of bronzeware. You must be careful about quality when purchasing bronze: Some vendors don't use enough nickel (so the bronze tarnishes easily), or use too much, leaving little bronze patina. Thai Shop's formula is 3% nickel, 79% copper, and 18% tin, for a positively handsome, gleaming product. A 12-person, 144-piece service costs about $250. The shop also sells lacquerware, some of which is handpainted, and some coated with an eggshell application. The creation of strong, durable lacquerware is very time intensive; each of the typically 19 coats must dry before the next one is applied, and the whole process can take many months, even for small pieces.

In the back, you can watch the manufacture of bronzeware.

The Loom
Chiang Mai
This small wooden house, located a few blocks east of Wat Chedi Luang in the Old City, showcases a superb collection of antique and new textiles from Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, China, and Burma. Long contemporary silk-ikat scarves from Thailand's Northeast sell for 250B ($10) each, and gorgeous, colorful old silk sarongs from Cambodia and Laos go for 400B to 500B ($16 to $20). You won't find anything near this quality in the Night Market, but look around here first for a rough idea of prices and be sure to bargain there.

This small wooden house, located a few blocks east of

The Night Market
Chiang Mai
The actual Night Bazaar is a modern, antiseptic, three-story building, but the indoor and outdoor market extends south to Sri Dornchai Road and far beyond. Many shops and stalls remain open throughout the day and evening, especially along Chang Klan Road. The Anusarn section closes at 10pm, so if you want a chance to browse through some of the best deals, come early. The stalls have grandiose names, like Harrods (with the familiar logo), and most carry Bangkok-produced counterfeits of international name-brand clothing, watches, and luggage. A skillfully reproduced Lacoste shirt will cost about 150B ($6)--the little alligator logo alone is 25B ($1). There are thousands of pirated audio tapes and videocassettes, acres of burnished brown "bone" objects, masks, wood carvings, opium pipes, opium weights ... you name it. Inside the Night Bazaar building itself, with a currency-exchange booth at the entrance, are primarily modern, mass-manufactured goods, with an occasional stand selling wonderful tribal chotchkas. The range from pretty good, low-cost Thai fashions to typical schlock souvenirs. The top floor has booths selling locally produced handicrafts, some "antiques," and some decorative arts. If you wish to register any complaints with the authorities regarding "unsportsmanlike conduct," visit the Tourist Police booth, on the sidewalk at the foot of the stairs leading to the bazaar.The actual Night Bazaar is a modern, antiseptic, three-story building,

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