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Antica Drogheria Manganelli
Siena
Siena's classiest stop for foodies is the glass-and-wood shelved shop of the Antica Drogheria Manganelli, Via di Città 71-73 (0577-280-002), since 1879 making its own panforte (one of the few left) and delicious soft ricciarelli almond cookies. It also carries the tops in Tuscan products, like vinegar from Castello di Volpaia and cured meats from Greve in Chianti's Falorni butchers.
Siena's classiest stop for foodies is the glass-and-wood shelved shop
Antiche Dimore
Siena
Fabrics and linens, both as raw materials and made into sheets, curtains, or embroidered hand-towels, are the stock in trade of Debora Loreni's Antiche Dimore, Via di Città 115 (0577-45-337).
Fabrics and linens, both as raw materials and made into
Antichità Monna Agnese
Siena
The best antiques shop in town is the Antichità Monna Agnese (0577-282-288), with a main branch at Via di Città 60 and another across the street at no. 45 that specializes in jewelry.
The best antiques shop in town is the Antichità Monna
Bini
Siena
Finally, for fresh pastries, you can't beat Bini, behind the left flank of the Duomo at Via dei Fusari 9-13 (0577-280-207), where since 1943 they've filled the neighborhood with irresistible scents as they make their delicious sweets on-site--in fact, you can watch them at work through the next window down the street.
Finally, for fresh pastries, you can't beat Bini, behind the
Ceramiche Artistiche Santa Caterina
Siena
Though lots of ceramics shops line Via di Città, they're mainly only of souvenir quality. The work of Ceramiche Artistiche Santa Caterina, with showrooms at Via di Città 51, 74, and 76 (0577-283-098) and a workshop outside town at Via P.A. Mattioli 12 (0577-45-006), is not. Maestro Marcello Neri trained at Siena's art school and in the ceramics workshops of Montelupo Fiorentino, Tuscany's foremost ceramics center, before taking over this studio in 1961, aided by his talented wife, Franca Franci, and now their adult son, Fabio, also an art school grad. Look especially for their wares painted in "Sienese style" using only black, white, and terra di Siena reddish brown (what we call burnt sienna) with designs inspired by the oldest pavement panels in the Duomo.
Though lots of ceramics shops line Via di Città, they're
Consorzio Agrario Siena
Siena
The supermarket-like Consorzio Agrario Siena, Via Piangiani 9 (0577-222-368), has been a farmer's co-op since 1901; most of the produce comes direct from the farm, and much of the packaged goods were packaged locally.
The supermarket-like Consorzio Agrario Siena, Via Piangiani 9 (0577-222-368), has
La Terra di Siena
Siena
For less touristy (and cheaper) pickings of traditional regional foods, head to one of the spots where many Sienese come to stock up. La Terra di Siena, Via G. Duprè 32 (0577-223-528), looks like a bargain basement-type place with stacks of regional products like Sienese cookies and area wines, honeys, cheeses, and meats, but it actually carries quality merchandise (at great prices).
For less touristy (and cheaper) pickings of traditional regional foods,
Muzzi Sergio
Siena
Muzzi Sergio, Via dei Termini 97 (tel. #577-40-439) is a friendly designer housewares shops, perfect for that set of grappa glasses or Alessi kitchen gadget.
Muzzi Sergio, Via dei Termini 97 (tel. #577-40-439) is a
Siena Ricama
Siena
Signora Bruna Brizi Fontani is a bundle of energy and full of stories in her little embroidery/needlepoint store, Siena Ricama, Via di Città 61 (0577-288-339). She spends so much time amiably gabbing with visitors to her workroom and shop, I wonder when she finds the time to finish all the wonderful lampshades and other objects--every last one stitched by Fontani herself. They're inspired by medieval Sienese art: the Duomo floor, illuminated manuscripts, the frescoes of the Lorenzetti brothers, and anything else that catches her fancy from art history books and the local museums.
Signora Bruna Brizi Fontani is a bundle of energy and
Tessuti a Mano
Siena
For something a bit more unique, drop by Fioretta Bacci and her pair of giant looms taking up most of the room at Tessuti a Mano, Via San Pietro 7 (0577-282-200). Fioreta weaves all her incredible scarves (starting at 50,0000L/$28.55), shawls (from 80,000L/$45.70), and sweaters (from 360,000L/$205.70) by hand.
For something a bit more unique, drop by Fioretta Bacci
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