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Matira Pearls
Bora Bora
You will have ample opportunities to shop for black pearls here (Vaitape village alone has a dozen outlets), but this is my favorite. It's owned by Steve Fearon, whose family once had a piece of the Hotel Bora Bora. Steve's chief assistants are his son, Heirama, who graduated from Pepperdine University in California, and daughter-in-law Tehani, herself educated in Los Angeles (Heirama and Tehani met there, not here). Unlike some other stores, their customized settings emphasize the pearl, not the gold. Set and loose pearls start at 10,000CFP (US$125/£63). Open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5:30pm, and Sunday, 10am to 5pm.You will have ample opportunities to shop for black pearls

Boutique d'Art Marquisien (Marquesan Art Boutique)
Cook's Bay
A family from the Marquesas Islands runs this attractive shop, where they sell exquisite art and handicrafts from their native archipelago. Woodcarvings top their list, including intricately carved tables that will cost a fortune to ship home. More manageable are war clubs, paintings, stone work, masks, tikis, and carved coconut shells. Open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 5:30pm. Cook's Bay, in Cooks Bay Center shops. tel. 56.23.37.A family from the Marquesas Islands runs this attractive shop,

Ann Simon Boutique
Maharepa
The French owner of this shop, Ann Simon, specializes in darker pearls -- those with rich blue and green hues -- set in 18-karat gold. That combination makes them anything but inexpensive, but this is a good place to see what high-quality black pearls look like. Some of Ann's designs are unique. Open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm.The French owner of this shop, Ann Simon, specializes in

Eva Perles
Maharepa
Eva Frachon, the French gemologist who owns this little shop, graduated from the University of Wisconsin at Oshkosh with a bachelor's degree in photography and art metals; thus, she does her own creative settings, and speaks American-style English. She carries high-quality orbs in all price ranges. Eva and Ron Hall's Island Fashion Black Pearls are the only Cook's Bay dealers who can legally send a courtesy shuttle to pick you up. Open Monday through Saturday from 9:30am to 5:30pm.Eva Frachon, the French gemologist who owns this little shop,

Galerie van der Heyde
Moorea
Dutch artist Aad van der Heyde has lived and worked on Moorea since 1964. One of his bold Impressionist paintings of a Tahitian woman was selected for French Polynesia's 100CFP postage stamp in 1975, and his landscape of Bora Bora appeared on a 2004 stamp. Aad will sell you an autographed lithograph of the paintings. Some of his works are displayed on the gallery's garden wall. He has also produced excellent videos of the islands and will gladly sell you a copy on DVD. In addition, you'll see a small collection of pearls, woodcarvings, tapa cloth, shell and coral jewelry, and primitive art from Papua New Guinea. Open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 5pm.Dutch artist Aad van der Heyde has lived and worked

Ron Hall's Island Fashion Black Pearls
Moorea
Ron Hall sailed from Hawaii to Tahiti with the actor Peter Fonda in 1974. Peter went home; Ron didn't. Now Ron and his son, Heimata, run this air-conditioned Moorea retail outlet. It's worth a stop to see the antiques and old photos, including one of the infamous Quinn's Bar and a William Leeteg painting of a Tahitian vahine (Ron's wife and Heimata's mother, Josée, was herself a championship Tahitian dancer). In 15 minutes of "pearl school," you will learn the basics of picking a pearl. They will have your selection set in a mounting of your choice, their prices are fair, and they donate 10% of every pearl purchase to Dr. Michael Poole's dolphin and whale research. They also carry one of Moorea's best selections of bathing suits, aloha shirts, and T-shirts. Open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm.Ron Hall sailed from Hawaii to Tahiti with the actor

Sculpture Par Woody
Papetoai
Woody Howard was studying horticulture at the University of Hawaii when he came to Moorea in 1982 to work on Hotel Bali Hai's plantation. Like so many others, he stayed. He's more likely to be off running his pearl farm in the Tuamotus these days, but if you're lucky, he'll be here carving award-winning images of dolphins, fish, Polynesian wildlife, and women. He also has a reasonably priced selection of black pearls. Open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 5pm.Woody Howard was studying horticulture at the University of Hawaii

Boutique Gauguin
Povai Bay
In a white house 1.5km (1 mile) north of Hotel Bora Bora, Boutique Gauguin is one of the larger stores here, offering a selection of handicrafts, clothing, black pearls, and curios. This is the best place on Bora Bora to shop for prints of Paul Gauguin's paintings. Some of the pareus here are particularly artistic. Open daily from 8am to 5:30pm.In a white house 1.5km (1 mile) north of Hotel

The Farm
Raititi Point
You need to know about the Farm, since it's owned by the Levard family and thus you are likely to be deposited here after going on one of their safari excursions. They will show you how pearls are grown, harvested, graded, and turned into jewelry. The final products are for sale in the Bora Pearl Company, the showroom here. It's worth a visit here to see how it's all done. Open daily from 9am to 6pm.You need to know about the Farm, since it's owned

Musée de la Perle Robert Wan
Tahiti
Your beginning point should be the Musée de la Perle Robert Wan, on the rue Jeanne d'Arc side of the Centre Vaima (45.43.45). Named for Robert Wan, the man who pioneered the local industry back in the 1960s, this museum explains the history of pearls back to antiquity, the method by which they are cultured, and the things to look for when making your selection. Admission is 600CFP ($6) for adults, 300CFP ($3) for children. Call for a free ride from local hotels.

Your beginning point should be the Musée de la Perle

Pai Moana Perles
Tahiti
From the Centre Vaima, walk east along boulevard Pomare, then turn right on rue du Commandant Jean Gilbert (between Banque Socredo and Tahiti Sport) in the Quartier du Commerce. This sort of "Pearl Row" has a number of small jewelry stores specializing in pearls, and some major traders have upstairs offices here. Among the storefront shops is Pai Moana Perles (43.31.10), owned by Canadian Peter Ringland and American Rick Steger, whose pearl farm at Manihi in the Tuamotus directly supplies this little shop as well as outlets on Moorea and in Hawaii. They do all of their simple but elegant jewelry designs here.

From the Centre Vaima, walk east along boulevard Pomare, then

Sibani Perles Joallier
Tahiti
On the second level of the Centre Vaima, Sibani Perles Joallier (41.36.34) carries the jewelry line of Didier Sibani, another pioneer of the local industry. European-style elegance is the theme here and at the other Sibani outlets throughout the islands.

On the second level of the Centre Vaima, Sibani Perles

Tahiti Perles
Tahiti
Adjoining the museum, Tahiti Perles (45.05.05) carries only excellent-quality pearls and uses only 18-karat gold for its settings, so the prices tend to be high.

Adjoining the museum, Tahiti Perles (45.05.05) carries only excellent-quality pearls

Bora Bora I Te Fanau Tahi
Vaitape
Local artisans display their wares in the large hall at the wharf. It's the least expensive place to shop for straw hats, pareus, and other handicrafts items. Open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4pm, and on the weekend when cruise ships are in port.Local artisans display their wares in the large hall at

Boutique Bora Bora
Vaitape
Catering to the cruise ship crowd, this store has more T-shirts and pareus than most others, plus it sells woodcarvings, books, curios, calendars, and a few black pearls. It's a good place to stock up on Hinano beer glasses. A similar sister store, Boutique Pakalola, is upstairs next to the post office. Open daily from 9am to 5:30pm.Catering to the cruise ship crowd, this store has more

La Galerie Bora Bora
Vaitape
In Vaitape, this air-conditioned gallery carries excellent quality woodcarvings and stone carvings from the Marquesas, tivaivai quilts, pillow cases, pottery, tapa cloth, and paintings by local artists. Black pearls, too, of course. Open daily from 9am to 6pm.In Vaitape, this air-conditioned gallery carries excellent quality woodcarvings and

Mom's Boutique
Vaitape
Erina Gould, wife of Bloody Mary's Restaurant & Bar maitre d' Gregg Gould, sells only traditional aloha shirts, dresses, pareus, straw hats, and handicrafts at her little shop. In other words, the designs are like those prevalent when I first came here in the 1970s. Open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5:30pm.Erina Gould, wife of Bloody Mary's Restaurant & Bar maitre

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Frommer's Tahiti & French Polynesia, 2nd Edition