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Buckles & Company
Estoril
This store sells the best leather goods in all of Lisbon. It specializes in high-quality leather jackets, bags, and shoes, as well as women's clothing by national and foreign makers. The staff is quite knowledgeable. The store is accessible by train from Cais do Sodré.This store sells the best leather goods in all of
A Vida Portuguesa
Lisbon
When it was established in 2006 by a Portuguese journalist (Catherina Portes), local residents wondered if this place was a shop or a testimonial to old-fashioned Portugal as it's remembered by anyone born during the baby boom of the 1950s. It occupies what functioned during the early 20th century as a warehouse for (very) old-fashioned cosmetics, especially rice powders and unguents that might have been in vogue before Salazar. Today, you'll wander through battered cases of retro-hip objects that you might find baffling, but which exert powerful iconic appeal to the Portuguese. What, for example, are soaps by Claus Porti, and how, exactly, should that kitschy plastic model of Saint Anthony be constructed and at what time of the year? Look for lavender waters, kitchen tools, handicrafts, artists' supplies, books, and pomades that evoke waves of memories for the Portuguese.When it was established in 2006 by a Portuguese journalist
Ana Salazar
Lisbon
An internationally known name in fashion, Ana Salazar is the most avant-garde Portuguese designer of women's clothes. Known for her stretch fabrics, Salazar designs clothes that critics have called "body-conscious yet wearable." In addition to her main store, she has a branch at Av. de Roma 16E.An internationally known name in fashion, Ana Salazar is the
Casa do Turista, Madeira House
Lisbon
This centrally located store stocks more than 2,000 handmade items from throughout Portugal. Regional clothing and accessories include sweaters from Póvoa do Varzim and traditional scarves from Minho. (The fabled fisher's sweaters of Nazaré are much more likely to be made in Póvoa do Varzim than in Nazaré.) Other items for sale include embroidered hand towels and napkins, tablecloths, ceramics, and straw baskets.This centrally located store stocks more than 2,000 handmade items
Casa Maciel Ltda
Lisbon
Founded in 1810 as a specialized tinker shop that created the city's best lanterns and original cake molds, this house has distinguished itself in numerous national and international contests. You can select from the in-house patterns or have the artisans create pieces from your designs; the store will also ship items.Founded in 1810 as a specialized tinker shop that created
Cavalo de Pau
Lisbon
Set across the street from the Portuguese Parliament, on the street where fado diva Amalia Rodriguez used to live, this is a genuinely charming store that's loaded with antiques from Portugal and art objects from around the world. Look for elaborate baskets, sculptures, antique furniture, and gift items handcrafted in places like Brazil, Indonesia, Mozambique, and France, with an articulate sales staff that's ready, willing, and able to describe the provenance of each piece.Set across the street from the Portuguese Parliament, on the
Caza das Vellas Loreto
Lisbon
A century ago, dozens of candlemakers flourished within this neighborhood, close to the Praça Luís de Camões. Today, this is one of the very few candlemakers still surviving within Portugal, and the only one in Lisbon. The smell of beeswax permeates a 19th-century setting where customers don't proceed beyond a point of a few feet from the front door. Members of a polite staff will bring you samples of what's available. Depending on your tastes, candles contain the scent of fruit, apples, and entire bouquets of seasonal flowers. And chances are good that if a religious festival is scheduled for anytime within the next several upcoming months, this shop will have a candle to commemorate the event.A century ago, dozens of candlemakers flourished within this neighborhood,
Depósito da Mairnha Grande
Lisbon
This unpretentious store offers glass items created in the century-old Marinha Grande factory. The merchandise includes traditional bico de Jacpues (thick, patterned glass) service glasses, dishes, water pitchers, and salt and pepper shakers, as well as modern colored glass services. Other items include Atlantis crystal services and Vista Alegre porcelain. Atlantis crystal from Marinha Grande is renowned in Portugal, and there are some good buys here. You can purchase full services or individual pieces. Another branch is down the road at Rua de São Bento 418-420 (tel. 21/396-30-96).This unpretentious store offers glass items created in the century-old
EuroArte
Lisbon
Many members of Iberia's emerging community of young painters exhibit here, and many others hope to. EuroArte's focus on contemporary art is roughly equivalent to that of the Galeria Yela . Look for trends (often short-lived) and sometimes genuine value if you catch artists on the road to fame.Many members of Iberia's emerging community of young painters exhibit
Fábrica Viúva Lamego
Lisbon
Founded in 1879, this shop offers contemporary tiles -- mostly reproductions of old Portuguese motifs -- and pottery, including an interesting selection of bird and animal motifs. When you reach the store, you'll know you're at the right place: Its facade is decorated with colorful glazed tiles.Founded in 1879, this shop offers contemporary tiles -- mostly
Feira da Ladra
Lisbon
Nearly everything you can imagine is for sale at this open-air street market, which competes with the flea markets of Madrid and Paris in terms of surprising finds. Vendors peddle their wares on Tuesday and Saturday; for the finest pickings, go in the morning. The market is about a 5-minute walk from the waterfront in the Alfama district or a short walk from the Estação Santa Apolónia metro stop. It's best to start your browsing at Campo de Santa Clara and then work your way up the hilly street, lined with portable stalls and individual displays. Note that haggling is expected here.Nearly everything you can imagine is for sale at this
Galeria 111
Lisbon
Operated by Manuel and Arlete de Brito since 1964, Galeria 111 is one of Lisbon's major art galleries. The wide-ranging exhibitions of sculpture, painting, and graphics include work by leading contemporary Portuguese artists. The gallery also sells drawings, etchings, silk screens, lithographs, art books, and postcards. It's closed August 4 to September 4.Operated by Manuel and Arlete de Brito since 1964, Galeria
Galeria Sesimbra
Lisbon
Near the Ritz Hotel, this is one of the city's leading art galleries, operated by one of the most distinguished art dealers in Iberia. It sells the finest Portuguese painting, sculpture, and ceramics. A moderately liberal purveyor of fine contemporary artwork, the gallery avoids displaying artists who might strike some buyers as too experimental and bizarre. The focus is on evocative pieces that appeal to the traditional tastes of upscale clientele. The work is mainly by Portuguese artists, plus foreign artists "who have lived in Portugal long enough to get a feeling for the country." The best-known works are Agulha tapestries, whose controlled variation of stitching makes them more desirable than those made on looms. Former U.S. President Jimmy Carter owns an Agulha tapestry.Near the Ritz Hotel, this is one of the city's
Galeria Yela
Lisbon
This showcase near the Ritz Hotel prides itself on its cutting-edge expositions of emerging Iberian artists. The EuroArte gallery is its only rival on the contemporary-art scene. Look for acrylics, drawings, and engravings, most of them avant-garde in their focus and inspiration.This showcase near the Ritz Hotel prides itself on its
JAO
Lisbon
This is one of the best shops for ceramics, displaying a choice selection from Vista Alegre as well as Atlantis glassware and the works of other Portuguese and Continental manufacturers. Customers have found that the shop's Vista Alegre display of tableware is sometimes fuller than that company's own retail branches. If you don't see what you want, know that there is a large inventory warehouse at the rear of this two-floor outlet.This is one of the best shops for ceramics, displaying
Joalharia do Carmo
Lisbon
Nearly a century old, this is one of the best shops in Lisbon for filigree work. It stocks everything from simple, elegant pendants to models of fully rigged caravels fashioned entirely from thin strands of gold or silver (or both) woven together. All the silver pieces are handmade. Precious or semiprecious stones adorn some gold items. You'll also see platinum pieces, often in stunning designs. For the simplest items, such as bangles and earrings, prices start at around 25€ ($33), but most of the inventory is more valuable.Nearly a century old, this is one of the best
Laurenço y Santos
Lisbon
One of Lisbon's most prominent menswear stores, Laurenço y Santos is a place where a concierge at a grand hotel might refer a well-dressed guest who needs to augment his wardrobe with anything from a business suit to a golf outfit.One of Lisbon's most prominent menswear stores, Laurenço y Santos
Livraria Bertrand
Lisbon
You'll find a good selection of books at Livraria Bertrand, which has the latest bestsellers (Grisham and the like), along with some English-language magazines, travel guides, and maps of Lisbon and Portugal.You'll find a good selection of books at Livraria Bertrand,
Madeira House
Lisbon
Madeira House specializes in high-quality regional cottons, linens, and gift items. Its other location in Lisbon is at Avenida da Liberdade 159 (tel. 21/315-15-58).Madeira House specializes in high-quality regional cottons, linens, and gift
Mateus Shop Centro do Turismo e Artesanato
Lisbon
Here you'll find handicrafts, including pottery, ceramics, baskets, and embroidery. The good selection of pottery and ceramics includes items from all over Portugal. Worthwhile ceramic objects begin at around 7.50€ ($9.75) each, and some less significant objects (ashtrays, small vases, and the like) might begin at around 3.75€ ($4.90). The extensive clothing selection includes a Póvoa do Varzim sweater for between 25€ and 45€ ($33-$59) and a fisherman's plaid shirt for 45€ ($59). The shop also stocks Portuguese wines and liqueurs ranging from 7.50€ to 100€ ($9.75-$130).Here you'll find handicrafts, including pottery, ceramics, baskets, and embroidery.
Mousse
Lisbon
No one really knows whether this avant-garde enclave of the hyper-hip is an art gallery or a shop. And the owners of the place seem to encourage that kind of nervous tension within a setting where the merchandise, much of it retro Sputnik-era stuff from the Eisenhower era, changes dramatically at least every 5 weeks. Come here for current trends in vintage Scandinavian furniture, ceramics and ceramic jewelry, and sometimes, when the whim happens to strike, soaring and sweeping ersatz sculptures that might appropriately decorate a disco or coffeehouse of the minute. Dino Alves and Fernanda Pereira are the hooked-in owners of the place, which occupies a street-level showroom immediately downhill from the Praça Luís de Camões.No one really knows whether this avant-garde enclave of the
Nicca
Lisbon
This women's clothing boutique originated in 1980 within a cubbyhole-size nicca, a word that translates from the Portuguese as "very small space." Since then, its entrepreneurial owner, Bertillia Bergaña, has attracted an upscale clientele that has included Queen Sophia of Spain and María José Ritta, wife of the former Portuguese president. Part of its very chic allure derives from a potent combination of ready-to-wear and couture, an art form that's dying even in its original home, France, but which is still relatively affordable within Portugal, thanks to cheap, well-trained seamstresses and an ongoing passion for the art form. Bertillia showed us a rigorously tailored three-piece women's suit fashioned from raw silk that managed to be both sexy and businesslike at the same time, available in 15 colors, and made to order, that would have been a prize at a couture house in Paris. In Lisbon, it was available at a relative bargain of 1,000€ ($1,300). Check out the evening wear and the sexy cocktail dresses. You'll find the place near the landmark Praça Luís de Camões, just uphill from the shop-lined Rua Garrett, in the Chiado district.This women's clothing boutique originated in 1980 within a cubbyhole-size
Príncipe Real
Lisbon
Príncipe Real specializes in linens elegant enough to grace the tables of monarchs, including that of the late Princess Grace of Monaco. Owned by Cristina Castro and her son, Victor Castro, this store is one of the last that does artistic manual embroidery by order. It produces some of Europe's finest tablecloths and sheets in cotton, linen, and organdy. The owner-designer sells to famous names (the Rockefellers, Michael Douglas, the Kennedys, and many members of European royalty), but the merchandise is not beyond the means of the middle-class tourist. The shop's factory handles custom orders quickly and professionally. It employs 80 skilled workers who can execute a linen pattern to match a client's favorite porcelain or one of Cristina Castro's original designs.Príncipe Real specializes in linens elegant enough to grace the
Rosa y Peixeira
Lisbon
This is another prominent Lisbon store, similar to Laurenço y Santos, with a variety of men's clothing. Although the quality of clothing here is on the same level as Laurenço y Santos, its prices tend to be more reasonable.This is another prominent Lisbon store, similar to Laurenço y
Santos & Marcos, Lda, Antiguidades
Lisbon
This shop, a few steps from the Praça do Principe Real, stocks a noteworthy collection of 18th- and 19th-century paintings, furniture, and sculpture, some of it ecclesiastical in nature and some of it very unusual. The best pieces require permission from a government agency to leave the country; other less-valuable pieces can be exported without hindrance.This shop, a few steps from the Praça do Principe
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Lisbon
© Greg Elms/Lonely Planet Images
Buckles & Company
Estoril
This store sells the best leather goods in all of Lisbon. It specializes in high-quality leather jackets, bags, and shoes, as well as women's clothing by national and foreign makers. The staff is quite knowledgeable. The store is accessible by train from Cais do Sodré.This store sells the best leather goods in all of
A Vida Portuguesa
Lisbon
When it was established in 2006 by a Portuguese journalist (Catherina Portes), local residents wondered if this place was a shop or a testimonial to old-fashioned Portugal as it's remembered by anyone born during the baby boom of the 1950s. It occupies what functioned during the early 20th century as a warehouse for (very) old-fashioned cosmetics, especially rice powders and unguents that might have been in vogue before Salazar. Today, you'll wander through battered cases of retro-hip objects that you might find baffling, but which exert powerful iconic appeal to the Portuguese. What, for example, are soaps by Claus Porti, and how, exactly, should that kitschy plastic model of Saint Anthony be constructed and at what time of the year? Look for lavender waters, kitchen tools, handicrafts, artists' supplies, books, and pomades that evoke waves of memories for the Portuguese.When it was established in 2006 by a Portuguese journalist
Ana Salazar
Lisbon
An internationally known name in fashion, Ana Salazar is the most avant-garde Portuguese designer of women's clothes. Known for her stretch fabrics, Salazar designs clothes that critics have called "body-conscious yet wearable." In addition to her main store, she has a branch at Av. de Roma 16E.An internationally known name in fashion, Ana Salazar is the
Casa do Turista, Madeira House
Lisbon
This centrally located store stocks more than 2,000 handmade items from throughout Portugal. Regional clothing and accessories include sweaters from Póvoa do Varzim and traditional scarves from Minho. (The fabled fisher's sweaters of Nazaré are much more likely to be made in Póvoa do Varzim than in Nazaré.) Other items for sale include embroidered hand towels and napkins, tablecloths, ceramics, and straw baskets.This centrally located store stocks more than 2,000 handmade items
Casa Maciel Ltda
Lisbon
Founded in 1810 as a specialized tinker shop that created the city's best lanterns and original cake molds, this house has distinguished itself in numerous national and international contests. You can select from the in-house patterns or have the artisans create pieces from your designs; the store will also ship items.Founded in 1810 as a specialized tinker shop that created
Cavalo de Pau
Lisbon
Set across the street from the Portuguese Parliament, on the street where fado diva Amalia Rodriguez used to live, this is a genuinely charming store that's loaded with antiques from Portugal and art objects from around the world. Look for elaborate baskets, sculptures, antique furniture, and gift items handcrafted in places like Brazil, Indonesia, Mozambique, and France, with an articulate sales staff that's ready, willing, and able to describe the provenance of each piece.Set across the street from the Portuguese Parliament, on the
Caza das Vellas Loreto
Lisbon
A century ago, dozens of candlemakers flourished within this neighborhood, close to the Praça Luís de Camões. Today, this is one of the very few candlemakers still surviving within Portugal, and the only one in Lisbon. The smell of beeswax permeates a 19th-century setting where customers don't proceed beyond a point of a few feet from the front door. Members of a polite staff will bring you samples of what's available. Depending on your tastes, candles contain the scent of fruit, apples, and entire bouquets of seasonal flowers. And chances are good that if a religious festival is scheduled for anytime within the next several upcoming months, this shop will have a candle to commemorate the event.A century ago, dozens of candlemakers flourished within this neighborhood,
Depósito da Mairnha Grande
Lisbon
This unpretentious store offers glass items created in the century-old Marinha Grande factory. The merchandise includes traditional bico de Jacpues (thick, patterned glass) service glasses, dishes, water pitchers, and salt and pepper shakers, as well as modern colored glass services. Other items include Atlantis crystal services and Vista Alegre porcelain. Atlantis crystal from Marinha Grande is renowned in Portugal, and there are some good buys here. You can purchase full services or individual pieces. Another branch is down the road at Rua de São Bento 418-420 (tel. 21/396-30-96).This unpretentious store offers glass items created in the century-old
EuroArte
Lisbon
Many members of Iberia's emerging community of young painters exhibit here, and many others hope to. EuroArte's focus on contemporary art is roughly equivalent to that of the Galeria Yela . Look for trends (often short-lived) and sometimes genuine value if you catch artists on the road to fame.Many members of Iberia's emerging community of young painters exhibit
Fábrica Viúva Lamego
Lisbon
Founded in 1879, this shop offers contemporary tiles -- mostly reproductions of old Portuguese motifs -- and pottery, including an interesting selection of bird and animal motifs. When you reach the store, you'll know you're at the right place: Its facade is decorated with colorful glazed tiles.Founded in 1879, this shop offers contemporary tiles -- mostly
Feira da Ladra
Lisbon
Nearly everything you can imagine is for sale at this open-air street market, which competes with the flea markets of Madrid and Paris in terms of surprising finds. Vendors peddle their wares on Tuesday and Saturday; for the finest pickings, go in the morning. The market is about a 5-minute walk from the waterfront in the Alfama district or a short walk from the Estação Santa Apolónia metro stop. It's best to start your browsing at Campo de Santa Clara and then work your way up the hilly street, lined with portable stalls and individual displays. Note that haggling is expected here.Nearly everything you can imagine is for sale at this
Galeria 111
Lisbon
Operated by Manuel and Arlete de Brito since 1964, Galeria 111 is one of Lisbon's major art galleries. The wide-ranging exhibitions of sculpture, painting, and graphics include work by leading contemporary Portuguese artists. The gallery also sells drawings, etchings, silk screens, lithographs, art books, and postcards. It's closed August 4 to September 4.Operated by Manuel and Arlete de Brito since 1964, Galeria
Galeria Sesimbra
Lisbon
Near the Ritz Hotel, this is one of the city's leading art galleries, operated by one of the most distinguished art dealers in Iberia. It sells the finest Portuguese painting, sculpture, and ceramics. A moderately liberal purveyor of fine contemporary artwork, the gallery avoids displaying artists who might strike some buyers as too experimental and bizarre. The focus is on evocative pieces that appeal to the traditional tastes of upscale clientele. The work is mainly by Portuguese artists, plus foreign artists "who have lived in Portugal long enough to get a feeling for the country." The best-known works are Agulha tapestries, whose controlled variation of stitching makes them more desirable than those made on looms. Former U.S. President Jimmy Carter owns an Agulha tapestry.Near the Ritz Hotel, this is one of the city's
Galeria Yela
Lisbon
This showcase near the Ritz Hotel prides itself on its cutting-edge expositions of emerging Iberian artists. The EuroArte gallery is its only rival on the contemporary-art scene. Look for acrylics, drawings, and engravings, most of them avant-garde in their focus and inspiration.This showcase near the Ritz Hotel prides itself on its
JAO
Lisbon
This is one of the best shops for ceramics, displaying a choice selection from Vista Alegre as well as Atlantis glassware and the works of other Portuguese and Continental manufacturers. Customers have found that the shop's Vista Alegre display of tableware is sometimes fuller than that company's own retail branches. If you don't see what you want, know that there is a large inventory warehouse at the rear of this two-floor outlet.This is one of the best shops for ceramics, displaying
Joalharia do Carmo
Lisbon
Nearly a century old, this is one of the best shops in Lisbon for filigree work. It stocks everything from simple, elegant pendants to models of fully rigged caravels fashioned entirely from thin strands of gold or silver (or both) woven together. All the silver pieces are handmade. Precious or semiprecious stones adorn some gold items. You'll also see platinum pieces, often in stunning designs. For the simplest items, such as bangles and earrings, prices start at around 25€ ($33), but most of the inventory is more valuable.Nearly a century old, this is one of the best
Laurenço y Santos
Lisbon
One of Lisbon's most prominent menswear stores, Laurenço y Santos is a place where a concierge at a grand hotel might refer a well-dressed guest who needs to augment his wardrobe with anything from a business suit to a golf outfit.One of Lisbon's most prominent menswear stores, Laurenço y Santos
Livraria Bertrand
Lisbon
You'll find a good selection of books at Livraria Bertrand, which has the latest bestsellers (Grisham and the like), along with some English-language magazines, travel guides, and maps of Lisbon and Portugal.You'll find a good selection of books at Livraria Bertrand,
Madeira House
Lisbon
Madeira House specializes in high-quality regional cottons, linens, and gift items. Its other location in Lisbon is at Avenida da Liberdade 159 (tel. 21/315-15-58).Madeira House specializes in high-quality regional cottons, linens, and gift
Mateus Shop Centro do Turismo e Artesanato
Lisbon
Here you'll find handicrafts, including pottery, ceramics, baskets, and embroidery. The good selection of pottery and ceramics includes items from all over Portugal. Worthwhile ceramic objects begin at around 7.50€ ($9.75) each, and some less significant objects (ashtrays, small vases, and the like) might begin at around 3.75€ ($4.90). The extensive clothing selection includes a Póvoa do Varzim sweater for between 25€ and 45€ ($33-$59) and a fisherman's plaid shirt for 45€ ($59). The shop also stocks Portuguese wines and liqueurs ranging from 7.50€ to 100€ ($9.75-$130).Here you'll find handicrafts, including pottery, ceramics, baskets, and embroidery.
Mousse
Lisbon
No one really knows whether this avant-garde enclave of the hyper-hip is an art gallery or a shop. And the owners of the place seem to encourage that kind of nervous tension within a setting where the merchandise, much of it retro Sputnik-era stuff from the Eisenhower era, changes dramatically at least every 5 weeks. Come here for current trends in vintage Scandinavian furniture, ceramics and ceramic jewelry, and sometimes, when the whim happens to strike, soaring and sweeping ersatz sculptures that might appropriately decorate a disco or coffeehouse of the minute. Dino Alves and Fernanda Pereira are the hooked-in owners of the place, which occupies a street-level showroom immediately downhill from the Praça Luís de Camões.No one really knows whether this avant-garde enclave of the
Nicca
Lisbon
This women's clothing boutique originated in 1980 within a cubbyhole-size nicca, a word that translates from the Portuguese as "very small space." Since then, its entrepreneurial owner, Bertillia Bergaña, has attracted an upscale clientele that has included Queen Sophia of Spain and María José Ritta, wife of the former Portuguese president. Part of its very chic allure derives from a potent combination of ready-to-wear and couture, an art form that's dying even in its original home, France, but which is still relatively affordable within Portugal, thanks to cheap, well-trained seamstresses and an ongoing passion for the art form. Bertillia showed us a rigorously tailored three-piece women's suit fashioned from raw silk that managed to be both sexy and businesslike at the same time, available in 15 colors, and made to order, that would have been a prize at a couture house in Paris. In Lisbon, it was available at a relative bargain of 1,000€ ($1,300). Check out the evening wear and the sexy cocktail dresses. You'll find the place near the landmark Praça Luís de Camões, just uphill from the shop-lined Rua Garrett, in the Chiado district.This women's clothing boutique originated in 1980 within a cubbyhole-size
Príncipe Real
Lisbon
Príncipe Real specializes in linens elegant enough to grace the tables of monarchs, including that of the late Princess Grace of Monaco. Owned by Cristina Castro and her son, Victor Castro, this store is one of the last that does artistic manual embroidery by order. It produces some of Europe's finest tablecloths and sheets in cotton, linen, and organdy. The owner-designer sells to famous names (the Rockefellers, Michael Douglas, the Kennedys, and many members of European royalty), but the merchandise is not beyond the means of the middle-class tourist. The shop's factory handles custom orders quickly and professionally. It employs 80 skilled workers who can execute a linen pattern to match a client's favorite porcelain or one of Cristina Castro's original designs.Príncipe Real specializes in linens elegant enough to grace the
Rosa y Peixeira
Lisbon
This is another prominent Lisbon store, similar to Laurenço y Santos, with a variety of men's clothing. Although the quality of clothing here is on the same level as Laurenço y Santos, its prices tend to be more reasonable.This is another prominent Lisbon store, similar to Laurenço y
Santos & Marcos, Lda, Antiguidades
Lisbon
This shop, a few steps from the Praça do Principe Real, stocks a noteworthy collection of 18th- and 19th-century paintings, furniture, and sculpture, some of it ecclesiastical in nature and some of it very unusual. The best pieces require permission from a government agency to leave the country; other less-valuable pieces can be exported without hindrance.This shop, a few steps from the Praça do Principe
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