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Xanadu
Arroyomolinos
This huge out-of-town complex boasts over 200 shops, including an El Corte Ingles and HiperCor. Other facilities include cafes, bars, and a 15-screen cinema. Don't miss the Parque de Nieve, an indoor artificial ski slope. Stores open every day from 10am to 10pm. Leisure zones open Sunday to Thursday 10am to 2am; Friday and Saturday 10am to 4am.This huge out-of-town complex boasts over 200 shops, including an

ABC Serrano
Madrid
Set within what used to be the working premises of a well-known Madrileño newspaper (ABC), this is a complex of about 85 upscale boutiques that emphasize fashion, housewares, cosmetics, and art objects. Although each of the outfitters inside are independently owned and managed, most maintain hours of Monday to Saturday from 10am to midnight. On the premises, you'll find cafes and restaurants to keep you fed between bouts of shopping, lots of potted and flowering shrubbery, and acres and acres of Spanish marble and tile.Set within what used to be the working premises of

Adamá
Madrid
This attractive shop in the heart of Salamanca district is one of the best places to find top contemporary Spanish ceramics. Leading figures such as Claudi Casanovas display their inventively creative wares here -- at high prices, however! Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 2pm and 4:30 to 8:30pm.This attractive shop in the heart of Salamanca district is

Adolfo Domíngue
Madrid
This controversial Gallego designer from Orense has developed a cool laid-back style of clothing that caters to both sexes. Its fans appreciate the no-frills (verging on austere) style and impressive cost-to-value ratio. Snazzier shoes and a sports range aimed at younger buyers are also available. Open Monday to Saturday 10:15am to 2pm and 5 to 8:30pm.This controversial Gallego designer from Orense has developed a cool

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada
Madrid
A former leading light of the dynamic movida period of the late '80s, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada faded in popularity and then made a resurgence a decade ago in the ground floor of this Chamberí locale built by her grandfather. Here you'll find the full gamut of her latest bright, accessible, easy-to-wear style of clothing. Another store has recently opened in stylish Serrano and children's and men's clothes are also made to order. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 2pm and 5 to 8pm. During the month of August, it also opens Saturdays from 10am to 2pm and 5 to 8pm. A former leading light of the

Al Dente
Madrid
Products from Tuscany, Umbria, and Puglia dominate this little corner of Italy in Chueca, owned by Alicia Carulla, who's also on hand to give advice on recipes and dispense general culinary tips. Pasta rules in a rich variety of forms: toconi, cavatelli, orecchiette, and tagliolini among them. Rich sauces and a fine selection of Italian wines and grappas are also available, and the stylish shelves are lined with housewares with famous names like Fiordalisi, Fattorie, and Umbre.Products from Tuscany, Umbria, and Puglia dominate this little corner

Alvarez Gómez
Madrid
This is a marvelously old-fashioned perfumería. It's been around so long it's newly fashionable again. The shop markets its own fragrances, many based on almost long-forgotten formulas. Even if you're not specifically looking for perfume, you'll find an array of unusual merchandise here, including tortoiseshell accessories, custom jewelry, and even women's handbags and belts. Open Monday through Friday day 10am to 8pm; Saturday 10am to 2pm.This is a marvelously old-fashioned perfumería. It's been around so

Antigua Casa Talavera
Madrid
"The first house of Spanish ceramics" has wares that include a sampling of regional styles from every major area of Spain, including Talavera, Toledo, Manises, Valencia, Puente del Arzobispo, Alcora, Granada, and Seville. Sangria pitchers, dinnerware, tea sets, plates, and vases are all handmade. Inside one of the showrooms is an interesting selection of tiles, painted with reproductions of scenes from bullfights, dances, and folklore. There's also a series of tiles depicting famous paintings in the Prado. At its present location since 1904, the shop is only a short walk from Plaza de Santo Domingo. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 1:30pm and 5 to 8pm; Saturday 10am to 1:30pm."The first house of Spanish ceramics" has wares that include

Anton Martín
Madrid
One of the homeliest and friendliest -- and surprisingly least known -- of the traditional Madrileño markets, with two floors serving every conceivable kind of produce from Spain and farther afield. Adjoining street stalls sell a tantalizing variety of fish and smoked products.One of the homeliest and friendliest -- and surprisingly least

Booksellers
Madrid
The only bookshop in town specializing solely in English-language books, from the latest U.K. and U.S. novels to travel, history, and teaching material. Plenty of children's literature and English-language video, too. It also has a wide selection of children's literature and English-language videos and DVDs. Open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 2pm, 5 to 8:30pm; Saturday 10:30am to 2:30pm; closed Sunday.The only bookshop in town specializing solely in English-language books,

Capas Seseña
Madrid
Founded shortly after the turn of the 20th century, this shop manufactures and sells wool capes for both women and men. The wool comes from the mountain town of Béjar, near Salamanca. Celebrities who have been spotted donning Seseña capes include Picasso, Hemingway, and, more recently, Hillary Rodham Clinton and daughter, Chelsea. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 2pm and 4:30 to 8pm; Saturday 10am to 2pm.Founded shortly after the turn of the 20th century, this

Casa Bonet
Madrid
The intricately detailed embroideries produced in Spain's Balearic Islands (especially Majorca) are avidly sought for bridal chests and elegant dinner settings. A few examples of the store's extensive inventory are displayed on the walls. Open Monday to Friday 10:45am to 2pm and 5 to 8pm; Saturday 10:15am to 2pm.The intricately detailed embroideries produced in Spain's Balearic Islands (especially

Casa de Diego
Madrid
Here you'll find a wide inventory of fans, ranging from plain to fancy, from plastic to exotic hardwood, from cost-conscious to lavish. Some fans tend to be a bit overpriced; you may have to shop around to find a real bargain. Now open year-round, Monday to Saturday 9:45am to 8pm.Here you'll find a wide inventory of fans, ranging from

Casa del Libro
Madrid
By far the most comprehensive bookshop in Madrid, the three-story Casa del Libro is conveniently positioned right in the center of the Gran Vía. The basement offers a great selection of dictionaries and grammar books, while a ground floor alcove has an up-to-date selection of English-language literature (alongside current French, German, Italian, and Portuguese tomes). The first floor houses a well-stocked international travel section with plenty of books on Madrid. Open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 9:30pm; Sunday 11am to 9pm.By far the most comprehensive bookshop in Madrid, the three-story

Casa Hernanz
Madrid
A brisk walk south of Plaza Mayor delivers you to this store, in business since the 1840s. In addition to espadrilles, it sells shoes in other styles, as well as hats. Open Monday to Friday 9am to 1:30pm and 4:30 to 8pm; Saturday 10am to 2pm.A brisk walk south of Plaza Mayor delivers you to

Centro de Anticuarios Lagasca
Madrid
You'll find about a dozen antiques shops here, clustered into one covered arcade. They operate as individual businesses, although by browsing through each you'll find an impressive assemblage of antique furniture, porcelain, and whatnots. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 1:30pm and 5 to 8pm.You'll find about a dozen antiques shops here, clustered into

Chiacchere
Madrid
Owner Patrizia Bonfiglio comes from Milan and has projected much of that city's style into this chic, friendly locale, whose name means chitchat or gossip, but whose atmosphere is both cosmopolitan and essentially Italian. You can select from a wide range of native produce, including pastas from Bari and rich tomato sauces flavored with basil and Gorgonzola. If the sight of all these goodies makes you hungry, sample the delicious 10€ ($12) menu in the small dining area. A typical combination would be carpaccio di Bresaola, penne al pesto, and tiramisu, all made from produce sold in the shop.Owner Patrizia Bonfiglio comes from Milan and has projected much

Cuesta de Moyano
Madrid
A sort of smaller literary Rastro, this collection of wooden bookstalls and kioskos climbs the slope from the Atocha end of the Paseo del Prado -- alongside the railings of the Botanical Gardens -- right up to the southwestern corner of the Retiro Park. Practically all the books are secondhand and in Spanish, but whether you read Castilian or not it's great fun to wander, browse, and simply absorb the scene, unchanged over many decades and one of the great traditional sights of outdoor Madrid. Most stalls are open daily from 10am to 7pm; Sunday mornings are the liveliest time.A sort of smaller literary Rastro, this collection of wooden

Deli Deluxe
Madrid
Another American-inspired creation is this stylish multipurpose deli-cum-restaurant run by brother-and-sister team Astrid and Randy Romero. While deciding which of the international food products on display you want to buy, relax over a coffee or -- depending on the time of day -- one of the Romeros' marvelous cocktails. The restaurant section offers colorful salads and Cuban sandwiches as well as a 9€ ($10) menu. A catering service is also available. Open 11am to 11pm.Another American-inspired creation is this stylish multipurpose deli-cum-restaurant run by

El Arco de los Cuchilleros Artesanía de Hoy
Madrid
Set within one of the 17th-century vaulted cellars of Plaza Mayor, this shop is entirely devoted to unusual craft items from throughout Spain. The merchandise is one of a kind and in most cases contemporary; it includes a changing array of pottery, leather, textiles, woodcarvings, glassware, wickerwork, papier-mâché, and silver jewelry. The hardworking owners deal directly with the artisans who produce each item, ensuring a wide inventory of handicrafts. The staff is familiar with the rituals of applying for tax-free status of purchases here, and speaks several different languages. Open January to September Monday to Saturday 11am to 8pm; October to December Monday to Saturday 11am to 9pm.Set within one of the 17th-century vaulted cellars of Plaza

El Corte Inglés
Madrid
This flagship of the largest department-store chain in Madrid sells hundreds of souvenirs and Spanish handicrafts, such as damascene steelwork from Toledo, flamenco dolls, and embroidered shawls. Some astute buyers report that it also sells glamorous fashion articles, such as Pierre Balmain designs, for about a third less than equivalent items in most European capitals. Services include interpreters, currency-exchange windows, and parcel delivery either to a local hotel or overseas. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 10pm; some stores also open Sunday noon to 8pm.This flagship of the largest department-store chain in Madrid sells

El Mercado de Chamartín
Madrid
A close rival to La Paz in the chic market stakes is residential Chamartín's traditional two-story food emporium. Noted for its small but immaculate fresh fish selection and marvelous range of olive oils and sauces, it also boasts an impressive range of quality meats, fruits, and vegetables.A close rival to La Paz in the chic market

El Rastro
Madrid
Foremost among markets is the Sunday morning El Rastro (translated as either "flea market" or "thieves' market"), occupying a roughly triangular district of streets and plazas a few minutes' walk south of Plaza Mayor. Its center is Plaza Cascorro and Ribera de Curtidores. This market will delight anyone attracted to a mishmash of fascinating junk interspersed with bric-a-brac and paintings. Note: Thieves are rampant here (hustling more than just antiques), so secure your wallet carefully, stay alert, and proceed with caution. Insofar as scheduling your visit to El Rastro, bear in mind that this is a flea market involving hundreds of merchants who basically pull up their display tables and depart whenever their goods are sold or they get fed up with the crowds. Sunday only; opens from dawn but gets busy by 9am.Foremost among markets is the Sunday morning El Rastro (translated

Estiarte
Madrid
This 30-odd-year-old gallery is the place to go if you want to see some first-rate graphic art. Max Ernst and Picasso are some of the luminaries who've been represented here. Open Monday to Friday 10:30am to 2pm and 4:30 to 8:30pm; Saturday 10am to 2pm.This 30-odd-year-old gallery is the place to go if you

Excrupulus Net
Madrid
Highly innovative shoe, jacket, and briefcase designs from Cataluña and Valencia -- all of the highest-quality leather -- are sold in this prestigious Chueca shop. The notable Muxart range includes stylish windcheaters. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 2pm and 5:30 to 8:30pm.Highly innovative shoe, jacket, and briefcase designs from Cataluña and

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BOOK STORE
Frommer's Madrid, 3rd Edition