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Colette
Paris
Named after the great French writer, Colette is a swank citadel for a la mode fashion. It buzzes with excitement, displaying fashions by some of the city's most promising young talent, including Marni and Lucien Pellat-Finet. This is for the sophisticated shopper who'd never be caught dead shopping at Galeries Lafayette and the like. Not to be overlooked are home furnishings by such designers as Tom Dixon and even zany Japanese accessories. Even if you don't plan to buy anything, patronize the tea salon, with its fresh quiches, salads, and cakes, plus three-dozen brands of bottled water. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 7:30pm.Named after the great French writer, Colette is a swank
Conran Shop
Paris
This shop might remind you of an outpost of the British Empire, valiantly imposing Brit aesthetics and standards on the French-speaking world. Inside, you'll find articles for the kitchen and dining room; glass and crystal vases; fountain pens and stationery; reading material and postcards; and even a selection of chocolates, teas, and coffees to help warm up a foggy English day. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 7pm; Saturday 10am to 7:30pm.This shop might remind you of an outpost of the
Courrèges
Paris
The house of Courrèges, founded in 1961, now maintains only one retail outlet in all of France: a sprawling, futuristic-looking showcase where the combined fashion statements of more than 40 years of fashion design are assembled into one blockbuster venue. The designs, once associated with moonwalks and the expanding space-age programs, are back and hot again. Even those white vinyl go-go boots and disco purses in silver metallic cloth are back in style, with special emphasis on neon tones of red and white, plastic, and a sense of whimsy and fun. André Courrèges, the founder, is in semiretirement: Coqueline, his wife, boldly forges ahead with ideas and venues for the 21st century. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.The house of Courrèges, founded in 1961, now maintains only
Défilé des Marques
Paris
French TV stars often shop here, picking up Saint Laurent, Dior, Lacroix, Prada, Chanel, Versace, Hermès, and others at a fraction of the price. Yes, it sells discounted Hermès scarves as well. Low prices here derive from the owners' skill at picking up used clothing from last year's collections in good condition and, in some cases, retro-chic clothing from collections of many years ago, sometimes from estate sales. Open Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 8pm.French TV stars often shop here, picking up Saint Laurent,
Dehillerin
Paris
Established in 1820, Dehillerin is Paris's most famous cookware shop, in the "kitchen corridor" alongside A. Simon and several other kitchenware stores. The shop has more of a professional feel to it than beginner-friendly A. Simon, but don't be intimidated. Equipped with the right tools from Dehillerin, you, too, can learn to cook like a master chef. Open Monday 9am to 12:30pm and 2 to 6pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 6pm.Established in 1820, Dehillerin is Paris's most famous cookware shop,
Didier Ludot
Paris
Fashion historians salivate when they're confronted with an inventory of vintage haute couture. In this frenetically stylish shop, albeit at prices that rival what you'd expect to pay for a serious antique, you'll find a selection of gowns and dresses created between 1900 and 1980 for designing women who looked faaabulous at Maxim's, at chic cocktail parties on the avenue Foch, in Deauville, or wherever. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 7pm.Fashion historians salivate when they're confronted with an inventory of
Editions de Parfums Fréderic Malle
Paris
If the big brand-name perfumes that are sold at every duty-free airport in Europe bore you, consider a visit to this boutique where brands are more personalized. This is the only outlet of an organization founded in 2000 by master perfumer Fréderic Malle, whose nose is as sensitive as that of any wine expert. Each of the scents sold here comes in a standardized bottle in either a 50ml size or a 100ml size. Scents are designed for either men or women; come in varying intensities of floral, spice, or Oriental motifs; and carry names that include Iris Poudre, Noir Epices, En Passant, and one of the bestsellers, Musc Ravageur. There's a lot of elegant chichi about this place (the paneled decor was designed by superdecorators Andrée Putnam and Olivier Lempereur), but the scents inside are often lovely. One of the things we like best about the place is the display of framed photographic portraits of each of the men and women who created the original scents sold within the boutique. Open Monday 1pm to 7pm; Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 7pm.If the big brand-name perfumes that are sold at every
Fauchon
Paris
At place de la Madeleine stands one of the city's most popular sights -- not the church, but Fauchon, a hyper-upscale mega-delicatessen that thrives within a city famous for its finicky eaters. It's divided into three divisions that include an épicerie (for jams, crackers, pastas, and exotic canned goods); a pâtissier (for breads, pastries, and chocolates); and a traiteur (for cheeses, terrines, pâtés, caviar, and fruits). Prices are steep, but the inventories -- at least to serious foodies -- are fascinating. At some of the counters, you'll indicate to attendants what you want from behind glass display cases and get an electronic ticket, which you'll carry to a caisse (cash register). Surrender your tickets, pay the tally, and then return to the counter to pick up your groceries. In other cases, you simply load up a shopping basket with whatever you want and pay for your purchases at a cash register, just as you would at any grocery store. On the same premises, Fauchon has a restaurant, Brasserie Fauchon, and a tea salon, which showcases the pastry-making talents of its chefs. Among the many offerings is a Paris-Brest, a ring in the shape of a bicycle wheel that's loaded with pastry cream, almond praline, butter cream, and hazelnut paste capped with almonds. Open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 7pm.At place de la Madeleine stands one of the city's
FNAC
Paris
This is a large chain of music and book stores known for their wide selection and discounted prices. Eight branches are in Paris, with the largest being at 136 rue de Rennes, Montparnasse. Other locations include rue St-Lazare, avenue des Champs-Elysées, Forum des Halles, avenue des Ternes, and avenue d'Italie. All are open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7:30pm except Champs-Elysées, which is open daily noon to midnight.This is a large chain of music and book stores
Galerie 27
Paris
This tiny closet sells etchings, lithographs by famous artists of the early 20th century, including Picasso, Miró, Braque, and Léger. Contemporary artists are also represented. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 1pm and 2:30 to 7pm.This tiny closet sells etchings, lithographs by famous artists of
Galerie Adrien Maeght
Paris
This art house is among the most famous names, selling contemporary art on a fancy Left Bank street that's far more fashionable than the bohemian Left Bank that Picasso knew. Open Monday 10am to 6pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9:30am to 7pm.This art house is among the most famous names, selling
Galeries Lafayette
Paris
Opened in 1896, with a lobby capped by an early 1900s stained-glass cupola classified as a historic monument, Galeries Lafayette is Europe's largest department store. If you have time for only one department store, make it this one. This store could provision a small city with everything from perfume to fashion. It is even more user-friendly than Au Printemps, and in fashion it places more emphasis on upcoming designers. It also concentrates on an upscale roster of everything you need to furnish and maintain a home; thousands of racks of clothing for men, women, and children; and a staggering array of cosmetics, makeup products, and perfumes. Menswear is concentrated in a section called Galfa; also in the complex is Lafayette Gourmet, one of the fanciest grocery stores in Paris, selling culinary exotica at prices usually lower than those at Fauchon; Lafayette Sports; Galeries Lafayette Mariage (for wedding accessories); and two other general-merchandise stores, both known simply as "GL." The floor above street level has a concentration of high-end, semi-independent boutiques, including Cartier, Vuitton, and Prada Sport. A fashion show is held at least once daily, usually in the Salon Opéra. At the street-level Welcome Desk, a multilingual staff will tell you where to find various items in the store, where to get a taxi back to your hotel, and so on. Open Monday to Wednesday and Friday to Saturday 9:30am to 6:45pm; Thursday 9:30am to 9pm.Opened in 1896, with a lobby capped by an early
Galignani
Paris
Sprawling over a large street level and supplemented by a mezzanine, this venerable wood-paneled bookstore has thrived since 1810. Enormous numbers of books are available in French and English, with a special emphasis on French classics, modern fiction, sociology, and fine arts. Looking for English-language translations of works by Balzac, Flaubert, Zola, or Colette? Most of them are here; if not, they can be ordered.Sprawling over a large street level and supplemented by a
Geneviève Lethu
Paris
This Provençal designer has shops all over France, with 19 others in and around Paris, all selling her clever and colorful Pottery Barn-meets-French Mediterranean tableware. The newer designs stress influences from India, South America, and Africa as well. Energy, style, and verve are rampant, and the prices are moderate. Open Monday to Saturday 10:15am to 7pm.This Provençal designer has shops all over France, with 19
Givenchy
Paris
Hubert de Givenchy made fashion news around the world with his establishment, in 1962, of the company that continues its lonely role as a couturier (custom-made clothier) for elegant women. Today, from chic premises set one floor above street level, the art form of custom-made women's clothing continues, a tradition that has died out except for just a handful of other practitioners. Be forewarned that if you're interested in custom-made clothing, advance appointments are necessary, and prices are stratospheric. But on the street level of the same premises, you'll find the flagship of the Givenchy empire, specializing in women's ready-to-wear. Just across the street, you'll find the official outlet for Givenchy's women's accessories, including purses and bags, scarves, shoes, and whatever it takes to keep a stylish woman-of-a-certain-age looking fabulous. A short walk away is Givenchy Hommes, where upscale, ready-to-wear clothing is inventoried for men. Both outlets maintain the same hours: Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.Hubert de Givenchy made fashion news around the world with
Givenchy Hommes
Paris
Hubert de Givenchy made fashion news around the world with his establishment, in 1962, of the company that continues its lonely role as a couturier (custom-made clothier) for elegant women. Today, from chic premises set one floor above street level, the art form of custom-made women's clothing continues, a tradition that has died out except for just a handful of other practitioners. Be forewarned that if you're interested in custom-made clothing, advance appointments are necessary, and prices are stratospheric. But on the street level of the same premises, you'll find the flagship of the Givenchy empire, specializing in women's ready-to-wear. Just across the street, you'll find the official outlet for Givenchy's women's accessories, including purses and bags, scarves, shoes, and whatever it takes to keep a stylish woman-of-a-certain-age looking fabulous. A short walk away is Givenchy Hommes, where upscale, ready-to-wear clothing is inventoried for men. Both outlets maintain the same hours: Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.Hubert de Givenchy made fashion news around the world with
Hédiard
Paris
This 1850 temple of haute gastronomie has been renovated, perhaps to woo visitors away from Fauchon. The decor is a series of salons filled with almost Disneyesque displays meant to give the store the look of an early-1900s spice emporium. Hédiard is rich in coffees, teas, jams, and spices. The decor changes with whatever holiday (Halloween, Easter, Bastille Day) or special promotion (the coffees of Brazil, the teas of Ceylon) is in effect at the time. Upstairs, you can eat at the Restaurant de l'Epicerie. Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 11pm.This 1850 temple of haute gastronomie has been renovated, perhaps
Hermès
Paris
France's single most important status item is a scarf or tie from Hermès. Patterns on these illustrious scarves, retailing for about 240€ ($348), have recently included the galaxies, Africa, the sea, the sun, and horse racing and breeding. But the choices don't stop there -- this large flagship store has beach towels and accessories, dinner plates, clothing for men and women, a large collection of Hermès fragrances, and even a saddle shop; a package of postcards is the least-expensive item sold. Ask to see the private museum upstairs. Outside, note the horseman on the roof with his scarf-flag flying. Open Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 6:30pm.France's single most important status item is a scarf or
J. C. Martinez
Paris
In its way, this is one of the most charming and old-fashioned art galleries in Paris. Established in the mid-1970s within a single room that's loaded with at least 400 separate boxes, it specializes in antique prints and engravings, most of them crafted between the late 1700s and around 1910, and some even earlier. You can rummage randomly through the inventories here, depending on how rare they are. But if your parameters are more specialized, the staff will guide you toward whatever subject interests you the most. If you're interested in engravings of birds, botany, fashion, sailing ships, floral arrangements, architectural renderings, or horse races, there's at least one box devoted to that particular subject. And if you're interested in the way the borders of France and its internal regions have been organized and reorganized since the days of the ancien régime, there's a wondrous collection of maps crafted at different times of the nation's complicated history. Open Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm.In its way, this is one of the most charming
Jadis et Gourmande
Paris
This chain of chocolatiers has a less lofty reputation than Christian Constant and more reasonable prices. It's best known for its alphabetical chocolate blocks, which allow you to spell out any message (well . . . almost), in any language. "Merci" comes prepackaged. Specialties that are even more delectable are pralines fondants, a mixture of praline, nuts, and chocolate that begins to melt the moment it hits your taste buds. Open Monday 1 to 7pm; Tuesday to Friday 10am to 7pm; Saturday 11am to 7pm.This chain of chocolatiers has a less lofty reputation than
Jadis et Gourmande
Paris
This chain of chocolatiers has a less lofty reputation than Christian Constant and more reasonable prices. It's best known for its alphabetical chocolate blocks, which allow you to spell out any message (well . . . almost), in any language. "Merci" comes prepackaged. Specialties that are even more delectable are pralines fondants, a mixture of praline, nuts, and chocolate that begins to melt the moment it hits your taste buds. Open Monday 1 to 7pm; Tuesday to Friday 10am to 7pm; Saturday 11am to 7pm.This chain of chocolatiers has a less lofty reputation than
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Paris
Supporters of this high-camp, high-fashion mogul describe him as an avant-garde classicist without allegiance to any of the aesthetic restrictions of the bourgeoisie. Detractors call him a glorified punk rocker with a gimmicky allegiance to futurist models as interpreted by Star Trek. Whatever your opinion, it's always refreshing and insightful, especially for fashion buffs, to check out France's most iconoclastic designer. Gaultier's line of purses are available in luxurious textures of leather, silk, or satin and are directly inspired by street fashion as it evolved in the urban environments of Los Angeles and New York. There's a franchise branch of his store at 6 rue Vivienne, 2e (tel. 01-42-86-05-05; Métro: Bourse), but the company's main branch, and the site of its biggest inventories, is at avenue George V. Open Monday and Saturday 10:30am to 7pm; Tuesday to Friday 10am to 7pm.Supporters of this high-camp, high-fashion mogul describe him as an
Jean-Paul Hévin
Paris
One of the great chocolatiers of Paris, its owner has mastered the fusion of chocolat with fromage (cheese, of course). Sweet luscious chocolates with tart cheeses such as Camembert or Roquefort are infused to satisfy both the cheese fan and the chocolate lover's sweet tooth. Savory chocolates are also served without cheese. New offerings -- unique in Paris -- have caused this place to become one of the most acclaimed in Europe for chocolate devotees. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7:30pm.One of the great chocolatiers of Paris, its owner has
La Maison Ivre
Paris
This charming shop is perfect for country-style ceramics that add authenticity to French-country decor. It carries an excellent selection of handmade pottery from all over France, with an emphasis on Provençal and southern French ceramics, including ovenware, bowls, platters, plates, pitchers, mugs, and vases. Open Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm.This charming shop is perfect for country-style ceramics that add
La Maison Rouge
Paris
The so-called "red house," created by Antoine de Galbert, has an ever-changing decor, as well as a constantly rotating display of the latest work of the "hot" artists of Paris. A large, well-laid-out, avant-garde space awaits you. Open Wednesday to Sunday 11am to 7pm (9pm on Thursday). Because this place is a virtual museum of art, an admission is charged: 6.50€ ($9.40) adults, 4.50€ ($6.50) ages 3 to 18 and senior citizens.The so-called "red house," created by Antoine de Galbert, has
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Paris
© John Hay/Lonely Planet Images
Colette
Paris
Named after the great French writer, Colette is a swank citadel for a la mode fashion. It buzzes with excitement, displaying fashions by some of the city's most promising young talent, including Marni and Lucien Pellat-Finet. This is for the sophisticated shopper who'd never be caught dead shopping at Galeries Lafayette and the like. Not to be overlooked are home furnishings by such designers as Tom Dixon and even zany Japanese accessories. Even if you don't plan to buy anything, patronize the tea salon, with its fresh quiches, salads, and cakes, plus three-dozen brands of bottled water. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 7:30pm.Named after the great French writer, Colette is a swank
Conran Shop
Paris
This shop might remind you of an outpost of the British Empire, valiantly imposing Brit aesthetics and standards on the French-speaking world. Inside, you'll find articles for the kitchen and dining room; glass and crystal vases; fountain pens and stationery; reading material and postcards; and even a selection of chocolates, teas, and coffees to help warm up a foggy English day. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 7pm; Saturday 10am to 7:30pm.This shop might remind you of an outpost of the
Courrèges
Paris
The house of Courrèges, founded in 1961, now maintains only one retail outlet in all of France: a sprawling, futuristic-looking showcase where the combined fashion statements of more than 40 years of fashion design are assembled into one blockbuster venue. The designs, once associated with moonwalks and the expanding space-age programs, are back and hot again. Even those white vinyl go-go boots and disco purses in silver metallic cloth are back in style, with special emphasis on neon tones of red and white, plastic, and a sense of whimsy and fun. André Courrèges, the founder, is in semiretirement: Coqueline, his wife, boldly forges ahead with ideas and venues for the 21st century. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.The house of Courrèges, founded in 1961, now maintains only
Défilé des Marques
Paris
French TV stars often shop here, picking up Saint Laurent, Dior, Lacroix, Prada, Chanel, Versace, Hermès, and others at a fraction of the price. Yes, it sells discounted Hermès scarves as well. Low prices here derive from the owners' skill at picking up used clothing from last year's collections in good condition and, in some cases, retro-chic clothing from collections of many years ago, sometimes from estate sales. Open Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 8pm.French TV stars often shop here, picking up Saint Laurent,
Dehillerin
Paris
Established in 1820, Dehillerin is Paris's most famous cookware shop, in the "kitchen corridor" alongside A. Simon and several other kitchenware stores. The shop has more of a professional feel to it than beginner-friendly A. Simon, but don't be intimidated. Equipped with the right tools from Dehillerin, you, too, can learn to cook like a master chef. Open Monday 9am to 12:30pm and 2 to 6pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 6pm.Established in 1820, Dehillerin is Paris's most famous cookware shop,
Didier Ludot
Paris
Fashion historians salivate when they're confronted with an inventory of vintage haute couture. In this frenetically stylish shop, albeit at prices that rival what you'd expect to pay for a serious antique, you'll find a selection of gowns and dresses created between 1900 and 1980 for designing women who looked faaabulous at Maxim's, at chic cocktail parties on the avenue Foch, in Deauville, or wherever. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 7pm.Fashion historians salivate when they're confronted with an inventory of
Editions de Parfums Fréderic Malle
Paris
If the big brand-name perfumes that are sold at every duty-free airport in Europe bore you, consider a visit to this boutique where brands are more personalized. This is the only outlet of an organization founded in 2000 by master perfumer Fréderic Malle, whose nose is as sensitive as that of any wine expert. Each of the scents sold here comes in a standardized bottle in either a 50ml size or a 100ml size. Scents are designed for either men or women; come in varying intensities of floral, spice, or Oriental motifs; and carry names that include Iris Poudre, Noir Epices, En Passant, and one of the bestsellers, Musc Ravageur. There's a lot of elegant chichi about this place (the paneled decor was designed by superdecorators Andrée Putnam and Olivier Lempereur), but the scents inside are often lovely. One of the things we like best about the place is the display of framed photographic portraits of each of the men and women who created the original scents sold within the boutique. Open Monday 1pm to 7pm; Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 7pm.If the big brand-name perfumes that are sold at every
Fauchon
Paris
At place de la Madeleine stands one of the city's most popular sights -- not the church, but Fauchon, a hyper-upscale mega-delicatessen that thrives within a city famous for its finicky eaters. It's divided into three divisions that include an épicerie (for jams, crackers, pastas, and exotic canned goods); a pâtissier (for breads, pastries, and chocolates); and a traiteur (for cheeses, terrines, pâtés, caviar, and fruits). Prices are steep, but the inventories -- at least to serious foodies -- are fascinating. At some of the counters, you'll indicate to attendants what you want from behind glass display cases and get an electronic ticket, which you'll carry to a caisse (cash register). Surrender your tickets, pay the tally, and then return to the counter to pick up your groceries. In other cases, you simply load up a shopping basket with whatever you want and pay for your purchases at a cash register, just as you would at any grocery store. On the same premises, Fauchon has a restaurant, Brasserie Fauchon, and a tea salon, which showcases the pastry-making talents of its chefs. Among the many offerings is a Paris-Brest, a ring in the shape of a bicycle wheel that's loaded with pastry cream, almond praline, butter cream, and hazelnut paste capped with almonds. Open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 7pm.At place de la Madeleine stands one of the city's
FNAC
Paris
This is a large chain of music and book stores known for their wide selection and discounted prices. Eight branches are in Paris, with the largest being at 136 rue de Rennes, Montparnasse. Other locations include rue St-Lazare, avenue des Champs-Elysées, Forum des Halles, avenue des Ternes, and avenue d'Italie. All are open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7:30pm except Champs-Elysées, which is open daily noon to midnight.This is a large chain of music and book stores
Galerie 27
Paris
This tiny closet sells etchings, lithographs by famous artists of the early 20th century, including Picasso, Miró, Braque, and Léger. Contemporary artists are also represented. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 1pm and 2:30 to 7pm.This tiny closet sells etchings, lithographs by famous artists of
Galerie Adrien Maeght
Paris
This art house is among the most famous names, selling contemporary art on a fancy Left Bank street that's far more fashionable than the bohemian Left Bank that Picasso knew. Open Monday 10am to 6pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9:30am to 7pm.This art house is among the most famous names, selling
Galeries Lafayette
Paris
Opened in 1896, with a lobby capped by an early 1900s stained-glass cupola classified as a historic monument, Galeries Lafayette is Europe's largest department store. If you have time for only one department store, make it this one. This store could provision a small city with everything from perfume to fashion. It is even more user-friendly than Au Printemps, and in fashion it places more emphasis on upcoming designers. It also concentrates on an upscale roster of everything you need to furnish and maintain a home; thousands of racks of clothing for men, women, and children; and a staggering array of cosmetics, makeup products, and perfumes. Menswear is concentrated in a section called Galfa; also in the complex is Lafayette Gourmet, one of the fanciest grocery stores in Paris, selling culinary exotica at prices usually lower than those at Fauchon; Lafayette Sports; Galeries Lafayette Mariage (for wedding accessories); and two other general-merchandise stores, both known simply as "GL." The floor above street level has a concentration of high-end, semi-independent boutiques, including Cartier, Vuitton, and Prada Sport. A fashion show is held at least once daily, usually in the Salon Opéra. At the street-level Welcome Desk, a multilingual staff will tell you where to find various items in the store, where to get a taxi back to your hotel, and so on. Open Monday to Wednesday and Friday to Saturday 9:30am to 6:45pm; Thursday 9:30am to 9pm.Opened in 1896, with a lobby capped by an early
Galignani
Paris
Sprawling over a large street level and supplemented by a mezzanine, this venerable wood-paneled bookstore has thrived since 1810. Enormous numbers of books are available in French and English, with a special emphasis on French classics, modern fiction, sociology, and fine arts. Looking for English-language translations of works by Balzac, Flaubert, Zola, or Colette? Most of them are here; if not, they can be ordered.Sprawling over a large street level and supplemented by a
Geneviève Lethu
Paris
This Provençal designer has shops all over France, with 19 others in and around Paris, all selling her clever and colorful Pottery Barn-meets-French Mediterranean tableware. The newer designs stress influences from India, South America, and Africa as well. Energy, style, and verve are rampant, and the prices are moderate. Open Monday to Saturday 10:15am to 7pm.This Provençal designer has shops all over France, with 19
Givenchy
Paris
Hubert de Givenchy made fashion news around the world with his establishment, in 1962, of the company that continues its lonely role as a couturier (custom-made clothier) for elegant women. Today, from chic premises set one floor above street level, the art form of custom-made women's clothing continues, a tradition that has died out except for just a handful of other practitioners. Be forewarned that if you're interested in custom-made clothing, advance appointments are necessary, and prices are stratospheric. But on the street level of the same premises, you'll find the flagship of the Givenchy empire, specializing in women's ready-to-wear. Just across the street, you'll find the official outlet for Givenchy's women's accessories, including purses and bags, scarves, shoes, and whatever it takes to keep a stylish woman-of-a-certain-age looking fabulous. A short walk away is Givenchy Hommes, where upscale, ready-to-wear clothing is inventoried for men. Both outlets maintain the same hours: Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.Hubert de Givenchy made fashion news around the world with
Givenchy Hommes
Paris
Hubert de Givenchy made fashion news around the world with his establishment, in 1962, of the company that continues its lonely role as a couturier (custom-made clothier) for elegant women. Today, from chic premises set one floor above street level, the art form of custom-made women's clothing continues, a tradition that has died out except for just a handful of other practitioners. Be forewarned that if you're interested in custom-made clothing, advance appointments are necessary, and prices are stratospheric. But on the street level of the same premises, you'll find the flagship of the Givenchy empire, specializing in women's ready-to-wear. Just across the street, you'll find the official outlet for Givenchy's women's accessories, including purses and bags, scarves, shoes, and whatever it takes to keep a stylish woman-of-a-certain-age looking fabulous. A short walk away is Givenchy Hommes, where upscale, ready-to-wear clothing is inventoried for men. Both outlets maintain the same hours: Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.Hubert de Givenchy made fashion news around the world with
Hédiard
Paris
This 1850 temple of haute gastronomie has been renovated, perhaps to woo visitors away from Fauchon. The decor is a series of salons filled with almost Disneyesque displays meant to give the store the look of an early-1900s spice emporium. Hédiard is rich in coffees, teas, jams, and spices. The decor changes with whatever holiday (Halloween, Easter, Bastille Day) or special promotion (the coffees of Brazil, the teas of Ceylon) is in effect at the time. Upstairs, you can eat at the Restaurant de l'Epicerie. Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 11pm.This 1850 temple of haute gastronomie has been renovated, perhaps
Hermès
Paris
France's single most important status item is a scarf or tie from Hermès. Patterns on these illustrious scarves, retailing for about 240€ ($348), have recently included the galaxies, Africa, the sea, the sun, and horse racing and breeding. But the choices don't stop there -- this large flagship store has beach towels and accessories, dinner plates, clothing for men and women, a large collection of Hermès fragrances, and even a saddle shop; a package of postcards is the least-expensive item sold. Ask to see the private museum upstairs. Outside, note the horseman on the roof with his scarf-flag flying. Open Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 6:30pm.France's single most important status item is a scarf or
J. C. Martinez
Paris
In its way, this is one of the most charming and old-fashioned art galleries in Paris. Established in the mid-1970s within a single room that's loaded with at least 400 separate boxes, it specializes in antique prints and engravings, most of them crafted between the late 1700s and around 1910, and some even earlier. You can rummage randomly through the inventories here, depending on how rare they are. But if your parameters are more specialized, the staff will guide you toward whatever subject interests you the most. If you're interested in engravings of birds, botany, fashion, sailing ships, floral arrangements, architectural renderings, or horse races, there's at least one box devoted to that particular subject. And if you're interested in the way the borders of France and its internal regions have been organized and reorganized since the days of the ancien régime, there's a wondrous collection of maps crafted at different times of the nation's complicated history. Open Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm.In its way, this is one of the most charming
Jadis et Gourmande
Paris
This chain of chocolatiers has a less lofty reputation than Christian Constant and more reasonable prices. It's best known for its alphabetical chocolate blocks, which allow you to spell out any message (well . . . almost), in any language. "Merci" comes prepackaged. Specialties that are even more delectable are pralines fondants, a mixture of praline, nuts, and chocolate that begins to melt the moment it hits your taste buds. Open Monday 1 to 7pm; Tuesday to Friday 10am to 7pm; Saturday 11am to 7pm.This chain of chocolatiers has a less lofty reputation than
Jadis et Gourmande
Paris
This chain of chocolatiers has a less lofty reputation than Christian Constant and more reasonable prices. It's best known for its alphabetical chocolate blocks, which allow you to spell out any message (well . . . almost), in any language. "Merci" comes prepackaged. Specialties that are even more delectable are pralines fondants, a mixture of praline, nuts, and chocolate that begins to melt the moment it hits your taste buds. Open Monday 1 to 7pm; Tuesday to Friday 10am to 7pm; Saturday 11am to 7pm.This chain of chocolatiers has a less lofty reputation than
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Paris
Supporters of this high-camp, high-fashion mogul describe him as an avant-garde classicist without allegiance to any of the aesthetic restrictions of the bourgeoisie. Detractors call him a glorified punk rocker with a gimmicky allegiance to futurist models as interpreted by Star Trek. Whatever your opinion, it's always refreshing and insightful, especially for fashion buffs, to check out France's most iconoclastic designer. Gaultier's line of purses are available in luxurious textures of leather, silk, or satin and are directly inspired by street fashion as it evolved in the urban environments of Los Angeles and New York. There's a franchise branch of his store at 6 rue Vivienne, 2e (tel. 01-42-86-05-05; Métro: Bourse), but the company's main branch, and the site of its biggest inventories, is at avenue George V. Open Monday and Saturday 10:30am to 7pm; Tuesday to Friday 10am to 7pm.Supporters of this high-camp, high-fashion mogul describe him as an
Jean-Paul Hévin
Paris
One of the great chocolatiers of Paris, its owner has mastered the fusion of chocolat with fromage (cheese, of course). Sweet luscious chocolates with tart cheeses such as Camembert or Roquefort are infused to satisfy both the cheese fan and the chocolate lover's sweet tooth. Savory chocolates are also served without cheese. New offerings -- unique in Paris -- have caused this place to become one of the most acclaimed in Europe for chocolate devotees. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7:30pm.One of the great chocolatiers of Paris, its owner has
La Maison Ivre
Paris
This charming shop is perfect for country-style ceramics that add authenticity to French-country decor. It carries an excellent selection of handmade pottery from all over France, with an emphasis on Provençal and southern French ceramics, including ovenware, bowls, platters, plates, pitchers, mugs, and vases. Open Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm.This charming shop is perfect for country-style ceramics that add
La Maison Rouge
Paris
The so-called "red house," created by Antoine de Galbert, has an ever-changing decor, as well as a constantly rotating display of the latest work of the "hot" artists of Paris. A large, well-laid-out, avant-garde space awaits you. Open Wednesday to Sunday 11am to 7pm (9pm on Thursday). Because this place is a virtual museum of art, an admission is charged: 6.50€ ($9.40) adults, 4.50€ ($6.50) ages 3 to 18 and senior citizens.The so-called "red house," created by Antoine de Galbert, has
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