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La Quincaillerie
Paris
This is one of those shopping oddities that seem to exist only in Paris. The owners specialize in doorknobs for front doors, windows, and cupboards. There are knobs for almost any piece of furniture, and dozens of accessories, often by top designers such as Philippe Starck. The wares in their stores at no. 3 and no. 4 are modern and designed by some of Europe's top names, including the Italian legend Gio Ponti or Portuguese architect Alvaro Siza. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 1pm and 2 to 7pm; Saturday 10am to 1pm and 2 to 6pm.This is one of those shopping oddities that seem to

La Tuile à Loup
Paris
This emporium has been selling authentic examples of all-French handcrafts since around 1975, making a name through its concentration of hand-produced woven baskets, cutlery, and woodcarvings. Especially appealing are the hand-painted crockery and charming stoneware from such traditional manufacturers as Quimper and Malicorne and from small-scale producers in the Savoie Alps and Alsace. Open Monday 1 to 7pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm.This emporium has been selling authentic examples of all-French handcrafts

Lalique
Paris
Lalique is known for its smoky frosted-glass sculpture, Art Deco crystal, and unique perfume bottles. The shop sells a wide range of merchandise, including leather belts with Lalique buckles and silk scarves, designed to compete directly with those sold by Hermès. Open Monday to Wednesday 10am to 6:30pm; Thursday to Friday 9:30am to 6:30pm; Saturday 9:30am to 7pm.Lalique is known for its smoky frosted-glass sculpture, Art Deco

Lavinia
Paris
This is the largest wine-and-spirits store in Europe, opening in 2002 to great acclaim in Paris. Spread over three floors near place de la Madeleine, it stocks more than 3,000 brands of French wine and spirits, along with more than 2,000 brands from other parts of the world. A simple lunch-only restaurant is on-site, as well as a tasting bar. Wine sales here are big business and reflective of France's marketing ideas that regard wine as its favorite beverage. This is the only place in Paris where you can buy a good bottle of South Dakota wine. But who would want to? Open Monday to Friday 10am to 8pm; Saturday 9am to 8pm.This is the largest wine-and-spirits store in Europe, opening in

Le Louvre des Antiquaires
Paris
Across from the Louvre, this store offers three levels of fancy knickknacks and 250 vendors. It's just the place if you're looking for 30 matching Baccarat-crystal champagne flutes from the 1930s, a Sèvres tea service from 1773, or a signed Jean Fouquet gold-and-diamond pin. Too stuffy? No problem. There's always the 1940 Rolex with the aubergine crocodile strap. Prices can be high, but a few reasonable items are hidden here. What's more, the Sunday scene is fabulous, and there's a cafe with a variety of lunch menus. Pick up a free map and brochure of the premises from the information desk. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 7pm. Closed Sunday July to Aug.Across from the Louvre, this store offers three levels of

Le Maison du Miel
Paris
Running "The House of Honey" has been a family tradition since before World War I. The entire store is devoted to products made from honey: honey oil, honey soap, and various honeys to eat, including one made from heather. This store owes a tremendous debt to the busy bee. Monday to Saturday 9:15am to 7pm.Running "The House of Honey" has been a family tradition

Les Caves Taillevent
Paris
This is a temple to the art of making fine French wine. Associated with one of Paris's grandest restaurants, Taillevent, it occupies the street level and cellar of an antique building. Stored here are more than 25,000 bottles of wine, with easy access in nearby warehouses to almost a million more. Open Monday 2 to 7:30pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 7:30pm.This is a temple to the art of making fine

Les Mots à la Bouche
Paris
This is Paris's largest, best-stocked gay bookstore. You can find French- and English-language books as well as gay-info magazines such as Illico, Blue, e.m@le, Carol's Girlfriends, and Lesbia. You'll also find lots of free pamphlets advertising gay/lesbian venues and events. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 11pm; Sunday 1 to 9pm.This is Paris's largest, best-stocked gay bookstore. You can find

Les Trois Quartiers
Paris
Named after the junction of the three neighborhoods (Madeleine, Opéra, and Concorde) where it sits, this is a mall of at least 13 upscale boutiques specializing in clothing, perfume, cosmetics for men and women, and household accessories. The largest is Madelios, a menswear store that stocks more than 50 brand names, including Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, and Burberry. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.Named after the junction of the three neighborhoods (Madeleine, Opéra,

Librairie le Bail-Weissert
Paris
Paris is filled with rare book shops, but this one has the best collection of atlases, rare maps, and engravings from the 15th century to the 19th century. The shop sells original topographical maps of European and world cities, along with various regions of Europe. There's also a superb collection of architectural engravings. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 12:30pm and 2 to 7pm; Saturday 2 to 7pm.Paris is filled with rare book shops, but this one

Limoges-Unic & Madronet
Paris
In two shops a 3-minute walk from each other, you'll find Limoges china and anything else you might need for the table -- glass, crystal, and silver. It pays to drop into both stores, whose inventories vary according to the season and the whims of the buyers. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.In two shops a 3-minute walk from each other, you'll

Limoges-Unic/Madronet
Paris
Housed in two shops on the same street, this store is crammed with crystal of Daum, Baccarat, Lalique, Haviland, and Bernardaud. You'll also find other table items: glass and crystal, silver, whatever your heart desires. They'll ship your purchases, and English is widely spoken. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 6pm.Housed in two shops on the same street, this store

Louis Vuitton
Paris
Its luggage is among the most famous and prestigious in the world, a standard accessory aboard the first-class cabins of aircraft flying transatlantic and transpacific. Not content to cover the world's luggage with his initials, Vuitton has branched into leather goods, writing instruments, travel products, and publishing. Look for the traditional collection of leather, including Vuitton's monogrammed brown-on-brown bags in printed canvas, on the street level. The mezzanine showcases upscale pens, writing supplies, and stationery. The top floor carries the company's newest line: women's shoes and bags. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.Its luggage is among the most famous and prestigious in

Maison de la Truffe
Paris
Cramped and convivial, the layout of this shop was modeled after a Parisian's fantasy of an affable, cluttered, old-fashioned butcher shop in Lyon. It's the source for foie gras, caviar, black and white truffles, and other high-end foodstuffs. Artfully assembled gift baskets are a house specialty. One corner is devoted to a restaurant where many (but not all) of the dishes contain the costly items (especially truffles) sold in the shop. Examples include noodles or risottos with truffles and caviar with all the fixings. The restaurant is open during the open hours of the shop, although the last food order is accepted 45 minutes prior to closing. Open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 9pm.Cramped and convivial, the layout of this shop was modeled

Maki
Paris
You get some of the best deals in cosmetics and makeup here. In fact, it's the place where French actors and many models come for quality makeup products at discounted prices. The shop lies in the middle of a theater area. The staff often advises you about makeup. Open Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 1pm and 2:30 to 6:30pm.You get some of the best deals in cosmetics and

Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres
Paris
More centrally located is the organization's sales outlet near the Louvre. Once endorsed and promoted by the mistresses of Louis XV, Sèvres today manufactures only 4,000 to 5,000 pieces of porcelain every year. Of these, many are reserved as replacements for government and historical entities.More centrally located is the organization's sales outlet near the

Marché aux Fleurs
Paris
Artists and photographers love to capture the Flower Market on canvas or film. The stalls are ablaze with color, and each is a showcase of flowers, most of which escaped the perfume factories of Grasse on the French Riviera. The Flower Market is along the Seine, behind the Tribunal de Commerce. On Sunday, it becomes the Marché aux Oiseaux (Bird Market). Open daily 8:30am to 4pm.Artists and photographers love to capture the Flower Market on

Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves
Paris
This weekend event sprawls along two streets and is the best flea market in Paris -- dealers swear by it. There's little in terms of formal antiques and furniture. It's better for old linens, used Hermès scarves, toys, ephemera, costume jewelry, perfume bottles, and bad art. Asking prices tend to be high, as dealers prefer to sell to nontourists. On Sunday, there's a food market one street over. Open Saturday to Monday 6:30am to 4:30pm. Av. Georges-Lafenestre, 14e. No phone. Métro: Porte de Vanves.This weekend event sprawls along two streets and is the

Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt
Paris
Paris's most famous flea market is a grouping of more than a dozen flea markets -- a complex of 2,500 to 3,000 open stalls and shops on the northern fringe of the city, selling everything from antiques to junk, from new to vintage clothing. The market begins with stalls of cheap clothing along avenue de la Porte de Clignancourt. As you proceed, various streets will tempt you. Hold on until you get to rue des Rosiers; then turn left. Vendors start bringing out their offerings around 9am Saturday to Monday and take them in around 6pm. Hours are a tad flexible, depending on weather and crowds. Monday is traditionally the best day for bargain seekers -- attendance is smaller and merchants demonstrate a greater desire to sell. First-timers always want to know two things: "Will I get any real bargains?" and "Will I get fleeced?" It's all relative. Obviously, dealers (who often have a prearrangement to have items held for them) have already skimmed the best buys. And it's true that the same merchandise displayed here will sell for less in the provinces. But for the visitor who has only a few days to spend in Paris -- and only half a day for shopping -- the flea market is worth the experience. Dress casually and show your knowledge if you're a collector. Most dealers are serious and get into the spirit of things only if you speak French or make it clear you know what you're doing. The longer you stay, the more you chat and show your respect for the goods, the more room you'll have for negotiating. Most of the markets have restroom facilities; some have central offices to arrange shipping. Cafes, pizza joints, and even a few restaurants are scattered around. Almost without exception, they are bad. The exception is Le Soleil, 109 av. Michelet, St-Ouen (tel. 01-40-10-08-08; www.restaurantlesoleil.com), which was converted from a cafe into a family run restaurant by Louis-Jacques Vannucci. Catering to flea-market shoppers, the restaurant looks as if it were flea market-decorated as well. The French food is excellent, especially the sautéed chicken in a light cream sauce, the green-bean salad tossed with tomato cubes, and the fresh Norman cod and the tiny mussels cooked in a rich broth. Le Soleil is open daily for lunch and Thursday to Saturday for dinner. Note: Beware of pickpockets and teenage troublemakers while shopping the market. Open Saturday to Monday 9am to 7pm.Paris's most famous flea market is a grouping of more

Marché aux Timbres
Paris
This is where Audrey Hepburn figured it out in Charade, remember? At this stamp collector's paradise, nearly two dozen stalls are set up on a permanent basis under shady trees on the eastern edge of the Rond-Point. The variety of stamps is almost limitless -- some common, some quite rare. Generally open Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday 10am to 6pm.This is where Audrey Hepburn figured it out in Charade,

Marché Buci
Paris
This traditional French food market is set up at the intersection of two streets and is only a block long, but what a block it is! Seasonal fruits and vegetables cover tabletops, and chickens spin on the rotisserie. One stall is entirely devoted to big bouquets of fresh flowers. Monday mornings are light; Sunday is best. Open daily 9am to 7pm.This traditional French food market is set up at the

Montparnasse Shopping Centre
Paris
This shopping center is sort of a quick-fix mini mall in a business center and hotel (Le Méridien) complex, with a small branch of Galeries Lafayette and some inexpensive boutiques. Visiting it is really worthwhile only if you also take a trip across the street to Inno, with its deluxe supermarket in the basement. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.This shopping center is sort of a quick-fix mini mall

Morabito
Paris
This glamorous leather purveyor was originally established by an Italian entrepreneur on the place Vendôme in 1905. In the 1990s, it was partially acquired by an organization in Tokyo. Today, from a site on the glamorous rue François-Premier, it sells chicer-than-thou handbags. Morabito also has suitcases -- some of the best in Paris -- for men and women. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.This glamorous leather purveyor was originally established by an Italian

Nicolas
Paris
This is the flagship store of this chain of wine boutiques, and as such, its vintages are likely to be more esoteric and rare than what you'd find in any of the other 400-or-so members of its chain. Scattered over three floors of a large space near La Madeleine are fairly priced bottles of mainstream wines such as Alsatian Gewürztraminers and Collioures from Languedoc-Roussillon. Nicolas also stocks some exceptionally rare vintages, such as a Romanée-Conti from Burgundy. Open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 8:30pm; Saturday 9:30am to 8pm.This is the flagship store of this chain of wine

Nikita
Paris
This is the discount sales outlet for all the big names in women's lingerie, including Bolero, Lise Charmel, Lejaby, Simone Pérèle, and Aubade. Most of the lingerie sold here is 20% to 30% less than its counterparts in Right Bank boutiques. Open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 7:30pm; Sunday 9:30am to 1:30pm.This is the discount sales outlet for all the big

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Frommer's Paris 2009