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Poilâne
Paris
One of Paris's best-loved bakeries, Poilâne hasn't changed much since it opened in 1932. Come here to taste and admire the beautiful loaves of bread decorated with simple designs of leaves and flowers that'll make you yearn for an all-but-vanished Paris. Specialties include apple tarts, butter cookies, and a chewy sourdough loaf cooked in a wood-burning oven. Breads can be specially wrapped to stay fresh during your journey home. Note: Cherche-Midi location open Monday to Saturday 7:15am to 8:15pm; Grenelle location Tuesday to Sunday 7:15am to 8:15pm.One of Paris's best-loved bakeries, Poilâne hasn't changed much since
Poilâne
Paris
One of Paris's best-loved bakeries, Poilâne hasn't changed much since it opened in 1932. Come here to taste and admire the beautiful loaves of bread decorated with simple designs of leaves and flowers that'll make you yearn for an all-but-vanished Paris. Specialties include apple tarts, butter cookies, and a chewy sourdough loaf cooked in a wood-burning oven. Breads can be specially wrapped to stay fresh during your journey home. Note: Cherche-Midi location open Monday to Saturday 7:15am to 8:15pm; Grenelle location Tuesday to Sunday 7:15am to 8:15pm.One of Paris's best-loved bakeries, Poilâne hasn't changed much since
Réciproque
Paris
Forget about serious bargains, but celebrate what could be your only opportunity to own designer clothing of this caliber. Within a series of six storefronts side by side along the same avenue, you'll find used clothing from every major name in fashion, along with shoes, accessories, menswear, and wedding gifts. Everything has been worn, but some items were worn only on fashion runways or during photo shoots. Open Tuesday 11am to 6:45pm; Wednesday to Friday 11am to 7pm; Saturday 10:30am to 7pm.Forget about serious bargains, but celebrate what could be your
Sabbia Rosa
Paris
Everything here is filmy, silky, and sexy. Look for undergarments (slips, brassieres, and panties) and the kind of negligees that might have been favored by Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Woman. Even Madonna has been spotted shopping for panties here. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.Everything here is filmy, silky, and sexy. Look for undergarments
Shakespeare and Company
Paris
The most famous bookstore on the Left Bank is Shakespeare and Company, on rue de l'Odéon, home to Sylvia Beach, "mother confessor to the Lost Generation." Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and Stein were frequent patrons, as was Anaïs Nin, the diarist noted for her description of struggling American artists in 1930s Paris. Nin helped her companion, Henry Miller, publish Tropic of Cancer, a book so notorious in its day that returning Americans who tried to slip copies through Customs often had them confiscated as pornography. (When times were hard, Nin herself wrote pornography for a dollar a page.) Long ago, the shop moved to rue de la Bûcherie, a musty old place where expatriates still swap books and literary gossip and foreign students work in exchange for modest lodgings. Check out the lending library upstairs. Open daily 11am to midnight.The most famous bookstore on the Left Bank is Shakespeare
Souleiado
Paris
This is the only Paris branch of one of Provence's most successful purveyors of the bright fabrics and thick pottery of France's southern tier. Fabrics are measured out by scissors-wielding saleswomen and then sold by the meter for seamstresses to whip into curtains, tablecloths, or whatever. In a separate shop just around the corner, at 78 rue de Seine (same phone), there are displays of table settings, housewares, and gift items, each reflecting the bright sunshine and colors (usually ocher, cerulean blue, and a strong medium green) of the Midi. Open Monday 10:30am to 1pm and 2 to 7pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm.This is the only Paris branch of one of Provence's
SR Store
Paris
This is where great designer Sonia Rykiel dumps all that good stuff she didn't sell in main-line boutiques. Everything in both outlets, which lie within about 2 blocks of each other, is half the retail price charged when the garment was originally released. Both branches are open Tuesday to Friday 10:45am to 6:45pm; Saturday 10:45am to 7pm.This is where great designer Sonia Rykiel dumps all that
SR Store
Paris
This is where great designer Sonia Rykiel dumps all that good stuff she didn't sell in main-line boutiques. Everything in both outlets, which lie within about 2 blocks of each other, is half the retail price charged when the garment was originally released. Both branches are open Tuesday to Friday 10:45am to 6:45pm; Saturday 10:45am to 7pm.This is where great designer Sonia Rykiel dumps all that
Talmaris
Paris
This is called the world's smallest department store. Actually, it's a boutique showcase for Alain-Paul Ruzé, who spends 6 months a year traveling the world picking up treasures, which he brings back to Paris and sells at this outlet. He's likely to turn up with just about anything, perhaps an American flag from the 1700s, discovered in a Greenwich Village flea market in Manhattan. Both costly and less expensive items are sold. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.This is called the world's smallest department store. Actually, it's
Taschen
Paris
This store is a Germany-based publishing house that's known for coffee-table books. Erudite, high-profile, and glossy, most of them focus on architecture, art, photography, or eroticism. If you're in the market for a sweeping overview of the organization's past projects, this is the store for you. It is one of only two retail outlets in the world solely devoted to Taschen products (the other is in Cologne). Open Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 7pm.This store is a Germany-based publishing house that's known for
Tea & Tattered Pages
Paris
At this largely English-language paperback bookshop, you can take a break from browsing to have tea. Though it's out of the way, an extra dose of charm makes it worth the trip. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 7pm; Sunday noon to 6pm.At this largely English-language paperback bookshop, you can take a
The Different Company
Paris
Many fashionistas are deserting the fabled houses of scent and heading for this corner of counterculture chic on a hot new shopping street that's midway between place de la Bastille and the Hotel de Ville. The perfume shop is run by the father-daughter team of Jean-Claude and Céline Ellana. Scents which include "Osmanthus," "Sel de Vétiver," and "Rose Poivrée," have been called "fragrances for the 21st century." Tuesday to Saturday noon to between 7:30 and 8pm.Many fashionistas are deserting the fabled houses of scent and
Van Cleef & Arpels
Paris
Years ago, Van Cleef's designers came up with an intricate technique that remains a vital part of its allure -- the invisible setting, wherein a band of sparkling gemstones, each cut to interlock with its neighbor, creates an uninterrupted flash of brilliance. Come browse with the rich and famous. Open Monday to Friday 10:30am to 7pm; Saturday 11am to 7pm.Years ago, Van Cleef's designers came up with an intricate
Viaduc des Arts
Paris
This complex of boutiques and crafts workshops occupies the vaulted spaces beneath one of the 19th-century railway access routes into the Gare de Lyon. Around 1990, crafts artists, including furniture makers, potters, glassblowers, and weavers, began renting the niches beneath the viaduct, selling their wares to homeowners and members of Paris's decorating trades. Several trendsetting home-furnishing outfits have rented additional spaces. Stretching for more than 2 blocks between the Opéra Bastille and the Gare de Lyon, it allows one to see what Parisians consider chic in terms of home decorating. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 7pm.This complex of boutiques and crafts workshops occupies the vaulted
Village St-Paul
Paris
This isn't an antiques center, but a cluster of dealers in their own hole-in-the-wall hideout. It really hops on Sunday. Bring your camera, because inside the courtyards and alleys is a dream vision of hidden Paris: dealers in a courtyard selling furniture and other decorative items in French-country and formal styles. The rest of the street, stretching from the river to the Marais, is also lined with dealers. Open Thursday to Monday 11am to 7pm.This isn't an antiques center, but a cluster of dealers
Village Voice Bookshop
Paris
This favorite of expatriate Yankees is on a side street in the heart of the best Left Bank shopping district, near some of the gathering places described in Gertrude Stein's The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas. Opened in 1981, the shop is a hangout for literati. Its name has nothing to do with the New York weekly. Open Monday 2 to 8pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 8pm; Sunday 2 to 7pm.This favorite of expatriate Yankees is on a side street
Virgin Megastore
Paris
Paris has three branches of Europe's biggest, most widely publicized CD and record store. The Champs-Elysées branch is the city's largest music store; a bookstore and cafe are downstairs. The store's opening in a landmark building helped to rejuvenate the avenue. You'll find a Virgin Megastore at each airport. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to midnight; Sunday noon to midnight (other locations: Carrousel du Louvre, Sunday to Tuesday 10am to 8pm; Wednesday to Saturday 10am to 10pm; Gare Montparnasse, Monday to Thursday 7am to 8pm; Friday 7am to 9pm; Saturday 7am to 8pm).Paris has three branches of Europe's biggest, most widely publicized
W. H. Smith France
Paris
This store provides books, magazines, and newspapers published in English (most titles are from Britain). You can get the Times of London, of course, and the Sunday New York Times is available every Monday. There's a fine selection of maps and travel guides, plus a special children's section that includes comics. Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 7:30pm; Sunday 1 to 7:30pm.This store provides books, magazines, and newspapers published in English
Yves Saint Laurent
Paris
Long gone are the 1970s, when anything Yves Saint Laurent did was touted by the international press as a sign of his genius and the fashionable French dressed up in his luxurious versions of Cossack costumes, replete with boleros, riding boots, and copies of antique jewelry from the Russian steppes. Hours of all branches are Monday 11am to 7pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm. With the shutdown in 2003 of his couture department and the worldwide availability of off-the-rack Saint Laurent franchises selling mass-market clothing around the world, there are now only four outlets in Paris that sell his clothing.Long gone are the 1970s, when anything Yves Saint Laurent
Yves-Saint Laurent
Paris
Long gone are the 1970s, when anything Yves Saint Laurent did was touted by the international press as a sign of his genius and the fashionable French dressed up in his luxurious versions of Cossack costumes, replete with boleros, riding boots, and copies of antique jewelry from the Russian steppes. Hours of all branches are Monday 11am to 7pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm. With the shutdown in 2003 of his couture department and the worldwide availability of off-the-rack Saint Laurent franchises selling mass-market clothing around the world, there are now only four outlets in Paris that sell his clothing.Long gone are the 1970s, when anything Yves Saint Laurent
Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres
Sevres
Once endorsed and promoted by the mistresses of Louis XV, Sèvres today manufactures only 4,000 to 5,000 pieces of porcelain every year. Of these, many are reserved as replacements for government and historical entities. Located a short walk beyond the western edge of Paris' 16th arrondissement, in the suburb of Sèvres, it maintains a sales outlet for the porcelain manufactured inside. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 5pm.Once endorsed and promoted by the mistresses of Louis XV,
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Paris
© John Hay/Lonely Planet Images
Poilâne
Paris
One of Paris's best-loved bakeries, Poilâne hasn't changed much since it opened in 1932. Come here to taste and admire the beautiful loaves of bread decorated with simple designs of leaves and flowers that'll make you yearn for an all-but-vanished Paris. Specialties include apple tarts, butter cookies, and a chewy sourdough loaf cooked in a wood-burning oven. Breads can be specially wrapped to stay fresh during your journey home. Note: Cherche-Midi location open Monday to Saturday 7:15am to 8:15pm; Grenelle location Tuesday to Sunday 7:15am to 8:15pm.One of Paris's best-loved bakeries, Poilâne hasn't changed much since
Poilâne
Paris
One of Paris's best-loved bakeries, Poilâne hasn't changed much since it opened in 1932. Come here to taste and admire the beautiful loaves of bread decorated with simple designs of leaves and flowers that'll make you yearn for an all-but-vanished Paris. Specialties include apple tarts, butter cookies, and a chewy sourdough loaf cooked in a wood-burning oven. Breads can be specially wrapped to stay fresh during your journey home. Note: Cherche-Midi location open Monday to Saturday 7:15am to 8:15pm; Grenelle location Tuesday to Sunday 7:15am to 8:15pm.One of Paris's best-loved bakeries, Poilâne hasn't changed much since
Réciproque
Paris
Forget about serious bargains, but celebrate what could be your only opportunity to own designer clothing of this caliber. Within a series of six storefronts side by side along the same avenue, you'll find used clothing from every major name in fashion, along with shoes, accessories, menswear, and wedding gifts. Everything has been worn, but some items were worn only on fashion runways or during photo shoots. Open Tuesday 11am to 6:45pm; Wednesday to Friday 11am to 7pm; Saturday 10:30am to 7pm.Forget about serious bargains, but celebrate what could be your
Sabbia Rosa
Paris
Everything here is filmy, silky, and sexy. Look for undergarments (slips, brassieres, and panties) and the kind of negligees that might have been favored by Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Woman. Even Madonna has been spotted shopping for panties here. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.Everything here is filmy, silky, and sexy. Look for undergarments
Shakespeare and Company
Paris
The most famous bookstore on the Left Bank is Shakespeare and Company, on rue de l'Odéon, home to Sylvia Beach, "mother confessor to the Lost Generation." Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and Stein were frequent patrons, as was Anaïs Nin, the diarist noted for her description of struggling American artists in 1930s Paris. Nin helped her companion, Henry Miller, publish Tropic of Cancer, a book so notorious in its day that returning Americans who tried to slip copies through Customs often had them confiscated as pornography. (When times were hard, Nin herself wrote pornography for a dollar a page.) Long ago, the shop moved to rue de la Bûcherie, a musty old place where expatriates still swap books and literary gossip and foreign students work in exchange for modest lodgings. Check out the lending library upstairs. Open daily 11am to midnight.The most famous bookstore on the Left Bank is Shakespeare
Souleiado
Paris
This is the only Paris branch of one of Provence's most successful purveyors of the bright fabrics and thick pottery of France's southern tier. Fabrics are measured out by scissors-wielding saleswomen and then sold by the meter for seamstresses to whip into curtains, tablecloths, or whatever. In a separate shop just around the corner, at 78 rue de Seine (same phone), there are displays of table settings, housewares, and gift items, each reflecting the bright sunshine and colors (usually ocher, cerulean blue, and a strong medium green) of the Midi. Open Monday 10:30am to 1pm and 2 to 7pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm.This is the only Paris branch of one of Provence's
SR Store
Paris
This is where great designer Sonia Rykiel dumps all that good stuff she didn't sell in main-line boutiques. Everything in both outlets, which lie within about 2 blocks of each other, is half the retail price charged when the garment was originally released. Both branches are open Tuesday to Friday 10:45am to 6:45pm; Saturday 10:45am to 7pm.This is where great designer Sonia Rykiel dumps all that
SR Store
Paris
This is where great designer Sonia Rykiel dumps all that good stuff she didn't sell in main-line boutiques. Everything in both outlets, which lie within about 2 blocks of each other, is half the retail price charged when the garment was originally released. Both branches are open Tuesday to Friday 10:45am to 6:45pm; Saturday 10:45am to 7pm.This is where great designer Sonia Rykiel dumps all that
Talmaris
Paris
This is called the world's smallest department store. Actually, it's a boutique showcase for Alain-Paul Ruzé, who spends 6 months a year traveling the world picking up treasures, which he brings back to Paris and sells at this outlet. He's likely to turn up with just about anything, perhaps an American flag from the 1700s, discovered in a Greenwich Village flea market in Manhattan. Both costly and less expensive items are sold. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm.This is called the world's smallest department store. Actually, it's
Taschen
Paris
This store is a Germany-based publishing house that's known for coffee-table books. Erudite, high-profile, and glossy, most of them focus on architecture, art, photography, or eroticism. If you're in the market for a sweeping overview of the organization's past projects, this is the store for you. It is one of only two retail outlets in the world solely devoted to Taschen products (the other is in Cologne). Open Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 7pm.This store is a Germany-based publishing house that's known for
Tea & Tattered Pages
Paris
At this largely English-language paperback bookshop, you can take a break from browsing to have tea. Though it's out of the way, an extra dose of charm makes it worth the trip. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 7pm; Sunday noon to 6pm.At this largely English-language paperback bookshop, you can take a
The Different Company
Paris
Many fashionistas are deserting the fabled houses of scent and heading for this corner of counterculture chic on a hot new shopping street that's midway between place de la Bastille and the Hotel de Ville. The perfume shop is run by the father-daughter team of Jean-Claude and Céline Ellana. Scents which include "Osmanthus," "Sel de Vétiver," and "Rose Poivrée," have been called "fragrances for the 21st century." Tuesday to Saturday noon to between 7:30 and 8pm.Many fashionistas are deserting the fabled houses of scent and
Van Cleef & Arpels
Paris
Years ago, Van Cleef's designers came up with an intricate technique that remains a vital part of its allure -- the invisible setting, wherein a band of sparkling gemstones, each cut to interlock with its neighbor, creates an uninterrupted flash of brilliance. Come browse with the rich and famous. Open Monday to Friday 10:30am to 7pm; Saturday 11am to 7pm.Years ago, Van Cleef's designers came up with an intricate
Viaduc des Arts
Paris
This complex of boutiques and crafts workshops occupies the vaulted spaces beneath one of the 19th-century railway access routes into the Gare de Lyon. Around 1990, crafts artists, including furniture makers, potters, glassblowers, and weavers, began renting the niches beneath the viaduct, selling their wares to homeowners and members of Paris's decorating trades. Several trendsetting home-furnishing outfits have rented additional spaces. Stretching for more than 2 blocks between the Opéra Bastille and the Gare de Lyon, it allows one to see what Parisians consider chic in terms of home decorating. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 7pm.This complex of boutiques and crafts workshops occupies the vaulted
Village St-Paul
Paris
This isn't an antiques center, but a cluster of dealers in their own hole-in-the-wall hideout. It really hops on Sunday. Bring your camera, because inside the courtyards and alleys is a dream vision of hidden Paris: dealers in a courtyard selling furniture and other decorative items in French-country and formal styles. The rest of the street, stretching from the river to the Marais, is also lined with dealers. Open Thursday to Monday 11am to 7pm.This isn't an antiques center, but a cluster of dealers
Village Voice Bookshop
Paris
This favorite of expatriate Yankees is on a side street in the heart of the best Left Bank shopping district, near some of the gathering places described in Gertrude Stein's The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas. Opened in 1981, the shop is a hangout for literati. Its name has nothing to do with the New York weekly. Open Monday 2 to 8pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 8pm; Sunday 2 to 7pm.This favorite of expatriate Yankees is on a side street
Virgin Megastore
Paris
Paris has three branches of Europe's biggest, most widely publicized CD and record store. The Champs-Elysées branch is the city's largest music store; a bookstore and cafe are downstairs. The store's opening in a landmark building helped to rejuvenate the avenue. You'll find a Virgin Megastore at each airport. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to midnight; Sunday noon to midnight (other locations: Carrousel du Louvre, Sunday to Tuesday 10am to 8pm; Wednesday to Saturday 10am to 10pm; Gare Montparnasse, Monday to Thursday 7am to 8pm; Friday 7am to 9pm; Saturday 7am to 8pm).Paris has three branches of Europe's biggest, most widely publicized
W. H. Smith France
Paris
This store provides books, magazines, and newspapers published in English (most titles are from Britain). You can get the Times of London, of course, and the Sunday New York Times is available every Monday. There's a fine selection of maps and travel guides, plus a special children's section that includes comics. Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 7:30pm; Sunday 1 to 7:30pm.This store provides books, magazines, and newspapers published in English
Yves Saint Laurent
Paris
Long gone are the 1970s, when anything Yves Saint Laurent did was touted by the international press as a sign of his genius and the fashionable French dressed up in his luxurious versions of Cossack costumes, replete with boleros, riding boots, and copies of antique jewelry from the Russian steppes. Hours of all branches are Monday 11am to 7pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm. With the shutdown in 2003 of his couture department and the worldwide availability of off-the-rack Saint Laurent franchises selling mass-market clothing around the world, there are now only four outlets in Paris that sell his clothing.Long gone are the 1970s, when anything Yves Saint Laurent
Yves-Saint Laurent
Paris
Long gone are the 1970s, when anything Yves Saint Laurent did was touted by the international press as a sign of his genius and the fashionable French dressed up in his luxurious versions of Cossack costumes, replete with boleros, riding boots, and copies of antique jewelry from the Russian steppes. Hours of all branches are Monday 11am to 7pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10:30am to 7pm. With the shutdown in 2003 of his couture department and the worldwide availability of off-the-rack Saint Laurent franchises selling mass-market clothing around the world, there are now only four outlets in Paris that sell his clothing.Long gone are the 1970s, when anything Yves Saint Laurent
Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres
Sevres
Once endorsed and promoted by the mistresses of Louis XV, Sèvres today manufactures only 4,000 to 5,000 pieces of porcelain every year. Of these, many are reserved as replacements for government and historical entities. Located a short walk beyond the western edge of Paris' 16th arrondissement, in the suburb of Sèvres, it maintains a sales outlet for the porcelain manufactured inside. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 5pm.Once endorsed and promoted by the mistresses of Louis XV,
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