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Agatha
Seville
This is the leading outlet for dramatic costume jewelry in Andalusia. From Seville, Agatha has branched out with outlets from Tokyo to Paris. The firm presents two major collections a year. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 8:30pm. Closed on Saturday afternoon during July and August.This is the leading outlet for dramatic costume jewelry in

Agua de Seville
Seville
No scent emanating from Seville has elicited as much poetry as the blossoms from the city's 20,000 orange trees. In 1992, in honor of the Seville Expo, a team of designers came up with the world's ultimate orange-blossom-scented cologne, Agua de Seville, which today is a household name throughout Andalusia. The bottle that contains it, shaped like the barrel of one of Napoleon's cannons, was inspired by the chimneys jutting skyward from the kilns of the Cartuja monastery on the site of Seville Expo. Both the men's and the women's version of the cologne is rich with the scents of jasmine and orange blossom, although the men's version has a stronger dose of sandalwood. The largest size (125 ml/4.2 oz.) of either version sells for 40€ ($52). Also on display are some carefully chosen gift items, housewares, and fashion accessories. Open Monday to Friday from 10am to 2pm and 5 to 9pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm.No scent emanating from Seville has elicited as much poetry

Allegro
Seville
Next to the Teatro de la Maestranza, this is the best outlet in Seville for Spanish music, featuring zarzuela and flamenco songs along with the classics. You can listen before you buy. Open Monday to Friday from 10am to 2pm and 5 to 8:30pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm. Closed August 15 to August 30.Next to the Teatro de la Maestranza, this is the

Blasfor
Seville
This retail outlet sells and manufactures everything a well-dressed woman would need for the feria and fiestas of Seville, in a spectrum of colors, sizes, and degrees of ornamentation. Many of the mantillas, hair ornaments, and fans are made in Seville, and any would be absolutely splendid at the Rocio, at Holy Week, or at any indulgent cocktail party where such exotic attire might be admired. Don't overlook the silver-framed religious icons of a lavishly suffering Christ in his torment: The somewhat bizarre combination of elaborate colors, fine workmanship, Andalusian splendor, and religious imagery might remind you of a richly inventoried sacristy of a church, where all of the objects just happen to be for sale. Open Monday to Saturday from 9:45am to 1:30pm and 5:30 to 8:30pm; in July, August, and September, Monday to Friday from 9:45am to 1:30pm and 5:30 to 8:30pm, Saturday 9:45am to 1:30pm.This retail outlet sells and manufactures everything a well-dressed woman

Carolina Herrera
Seville
Standing on Seville's stylish Plaza Nueva, this boutique sells high-priced scarves, shoes, belts, wallets, handbags, and luxury goods. It's supremely luxurious, and surprisingly macho, outfitted in tones of dark leather and dark woods, and permeated with rock music. Unfortunately, the staff is snooty, judgmental, and extravagantly unhelpful in any language. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 9pm; in August Monday to Saturday from 10:30am to 1:30pm and 5:30 to 9pm.Standing on Seville's stylish Plaza Nueva, this boutique sells high-priced

Casa Rubio
Seville
Carmen fluttered her fan and broke hearts. You can, too, if you pick up a traditional Andalusian fan here. This outlet stocks the best selection in town, ranging from the austere and dramatic to the florid and fanciful. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 1:45pm and 5 to 8pm.Carmen fluttered her fan and broke hearts. You can, too,

Coco-Sevilla
Seville
Staffed and managed by four artistic "collaborators" (two of them Spanish, the others French), this shop aims to outfit women with fiesta-inspired silk scarves, feria mantillas, and Andalusian jewelry. These can be coordinated in ways that might make any woman look like a modern-day version of Carmen. The vision of the accessories sold here falls midway between nostalgically old-fashioned and contemporary, and there's ample use of wild and passionate roses, many of them applied as batiks. The most expensive item of jewelry sells for around 145€ ($189); shawls and scarves go for around 150€ ($195) each. Open daily from 11am to 7pm.Staffed and managed by four artistic "collaborators" (two of them

Confitería la Campana
Seville
This is one of the oldest and most respected pastry shops in Seville, with a pedigree going back to 1885, a sense of Victorian propriety, and a location near the beginning of an all-pedestrian street that's been considered a shopping mecca for years. They often provide the pastries at very grand and elegant diplomatic receptions. You'll select your caloric goodies beneath a splendid ceiling of white plaster and gilt. Look for the delightful tiled frieze of cherubs behind the counter. Locals flock here in droves during Easter to buy torrijas, deep-fried, crustless bread soaked in honey. There's a cafe on the premises and takeaway service as well. Open daily from 8am to 11pm.This is one of the oldest and most respected pastry

Dulce Flamenco
Seville
Come to this tiny boutique, just behind the rear side of the cathedral, for some of the most charming baby clothes in town. Priced at around 8€ ($10) each, the garments -- mostly T-shirts and Andalusian feria dresses -- are Sevillian inspired, Spanish in their trendiness and verve, and crafted in very small (and adorable) sizes. Also look for fans, priced at from 3.25€ to 94€ ($4.25-$122) each, and leather purses crafted into whimsical patterns, in some cases in very soft suede. There's also jewelry for sale. Open daily from 11am to 8pm.Come to this tiny boutique, just behind the rear side

El Azulejo
Seville
Bigger than most of its competitors within this crowded neighborhood near the cathedral, as well as classier and less claustrophobic, this shop sells upscale pottery, jewelry, and some of the most beautiful fans we've seen in Seville. Priced from 15€ to 160€ ($20-$208), they shimmer with hand-painted flowers or architectural renderings of actual sites within Seville. Open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 7:30pm.Bigger than most of its competitors within this crowded neighborhood

El Carambolo
Seville
The venue here is nonstandard leather goods, where artisans use traditional Andalusian leather-making techniques, with modern adaptations of color and design adding novel twists. (Ever seen a leather knapsack emblazoned with floral patterns, or with some of the architectural hallmarks of mudéjar Spain?) It charges from 60€ to 140€ ($78-$182) for most of its leather wallets, purses, briefcases, and satchels, and a lot less for belts and key-chain fobs. Open daily from 11am to 4pm and 6:30 to 9:30pm.The venue here is nonstandard leather goods, where artisans use

El Corte Inglés
Seville
This is the best of the several department stores clustered in Seville's commercial center. A well-accessorized branch of a nationwide chain, it features multilingual translators and rack after rack of every conceivable kind of merchandise for the well-stocked home, kitchen, and closet. If you're in the market for the brightly colored feria costumes worn by young girls during Seville's holidays, there's an impressive selection of the folkloric accessories that make Andalusia memorable. Daily 10am to 10pm.This is the best of the several department stores clustered

El Postigo
Seville
Set in the town center near the cathedral, this shop contains one of the biggest selections of Andalusian ceramics in town. Some of the pieces are much, much too big to fit into your suitcase; others, especially the hand-painted tiles, make charming souvenirs that can easily be transported. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 2pm, Monday to Friday from 5 to 8:30pm.Set in the town center near the cathedral, this shop

Félix
Seville
In the center of Seville, in front of the cathedral, this shop is the best outlet in Seville for antique Andalusian posters. Most popular are scenes, some in the Art Deco style, from the Feria de Abril (April Fair), from one of the corridas at the bullring, or from Semana Santa. Locals call these posters "propaganda" of major events. Open Monday to Friday from 10am to 2pm and 5 to 8pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm; in August hours are 10am to 2pm Monday to Friday.In the center of Seville, in front of the cathedral,

Félix e Hijo
Seville
This is a family affair . Whereas Félix sells mostly antique posters, this outlet specializes in archaeological artifacts ranging from Greek vases to Roman mosaics. Much of the loot was dug up in the surrounding countryside. Surprisingly, many items are affordable. Open Monday to Friday from 10am to 2pm and 5 to 8pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm; in August hours are Monday to Friday from 10am to 2pm.This is a family affair . Whereas Félix sells mostly

Iconos
Seville
This small, idiosyncratic boutique is loaded with fashion accessories that can be used by everyone from teenage girls to mature women. Silk scarves, costume jewelry, and an assortment of T-shirts with logos in varying degrees of taste -- it's all here. Much of the merchandise represents the new, youthful perceptions of post-movida (post-movement) Spain. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 9pm, Sunday from noon to 5pm.This small, idiosyncratic boutique is loaded with fashion accessories that

Joyero Abrines
Seville
This is the kind of place where grooms have bought engagement and wedding rings for their brides for generations, and where generations of girlfriends have selected watches and cigarette lighters for the hombres of their dreams. There's another branch of this well-known store at Calle de la Asunción 28 (tel. 95-427-42-44). Both are open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 1:30pm and Monday to Friday from 5 to 8:30pm.This is the kind of place where grooms have bought

L.T.C.
Seville
Smaller than many of the other book emporiums in Seville, this is the kind of place where you can find tomes on gardening, political discourse, philosophy, and pop fiction, all in one cozy place. Open Monday to Friday from 9am to 1:30pm and 5 to 8:30pm, Saturday from 10am to 1pm.Smaller than many of the other book emporiums in Seville,

La Cava de Betis
Seville
One of the best outlets for smokers in Andalusia is this well-stocked "fumador" with its collection of handmade cigars. Coveted Cuban cigars as well as cigars from the Canary Islands and the Dominican Republic are sold here. The shop lies in the heart of Triana on the shores of the Guadalquivir River. Open July and August, Monday to Friday from 10am to 2pm, Thursday also 5 to 9pm. From September to June hours are Monday to Friday from 10am to 2pm and 5 to 9pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm.One of the best outlets for smokers in Andalusia is

La Delicia del Barrio
Seville
Tucked away within a cubbyhole, on a street that's otherwise devoted to tapas bars, this stylish boutique specializes in upscale food products of Andalusia. On display are a variety of olives, wines, cheeses, and most important of all, olive oils that, in their abundance and diversity, show off the fertility and rich culinary traditions of southern Spain. If you want something really unusual, ask for a bottle of El Callejón Acebuchina, produced from wild olive trees (trees growing naturally on steep or impossibly rocky terrain that can't be cultivated in tracts). Despite its rarity, this olive oil sells for only 10€ ($13) for a half-liter bottle. Open daily from 10:30am to 9pm.Tucked away within a cubbyhole, on a street that's otherwise

Librería Vértice
Seville
Set conveniently close to Seville's university, this store stocks books in a polyglot of languages. Inventory ranges from the esoteric and professorial to Spanish romances. Open Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 2pm and 5 to 8:30pm, Saturday from 11am to 2pm.Set conveniently close to Seville's university, this store stocks books

Lina
Seville
If you want to look like Carmen at the Sevilla Fair, head for Lina, which celebrates "fiesta de color" with a wide assortment of flamenco dresses (the ones with the polka dots and ruffled skirts), dangling earrings, mantoncillos (flamenco scarves), and elegant shawls. Open Monday to Friday from 10am to 1:30pm and 5 to 8:30pm, Saturday from 10:30am to 2pm.If you want to look like Carmen at the Sevilla

Lio Sevilla
Seville
This gift shop sells fiesta and feria clothing for children. Here, for around 65€ ($78), you can outfit your 14-year-old (provided that she's cooperating) in an outfit reminiscent of Carmen. There are puffy and frilly mantilla skirts, and bullfighting memorabilia and T-shirts. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 10pm, Sunday from 11am to 9pm.This gift shop sells fiesta and feria clothing for children.

Loewe
Seville
This is the Sevillana branch of the oldest (established in 1856) and most famous purveyor of fine leather goods in Spain. You'll enter a big-windowed and sun-flooded store where topnotch leather goods are artfully displayed. Check out the new line of scarves, as designed by Oscar Marine, one of the graphic artists associated with Pedro Almodovar's films, which cost from 160€ to 180€ ($208-$234) each. Discerning women make a beeline for shoes they can really strut their stuff in, and the briefcases. Open Monday to Friday from 10am to 8:30pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm.This is the Sevillana branch of the oldest (established in

María Rosa
Seville
This is the best outlet in Andalusia for flamenco dresses. In the heart of Seville, the shops offer exclusive models and textiles. Open Monday to Friday from 10am to 1:30pm and 5 to 8:30pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm.This is the best outlet in Andalusia for flamenco dresses.

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BOOK STORE
Frommer's Seville, Granada & the Best of Andalusia, 3rd Edition