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Tokyu Honten (Main Store)
Tokyo
With its conservative styles in clothing and housewares, the Tokyu chain's flagship store appeals mainly to a 40s-and-older age group. You'll find women's fashions (including departments for larger sizes), men's fashions, children's clothing and toys, arts and crafts, and restaurants. It adjoins the ultramodern Bunkamura complex, the largest cultural center in Tokyo, with cinemas, theater and concert halls, a museum, a bookstore, and cafes. Open daily 11am to 7pm.With its conservative styles in clothing and housewares, the Tokyu

Tower Records and Books
Tokyo
My friends in Tokyo don't shop anywhere else for their books and magazines, as prices are usually lower here than elsewhere. The seventh floor is devoted to imported publications, with a good selection of English-language books, more than 3,000 different kinds of magazines, and -- available via computer printout for a fee -- more than 300 newspapers from around the world. For music, from classical to new releases to Japanese pop to games to CD-ROMs, it's all here, on six floors. Open daily 10am to 11pm. Closed some Mondays.My friends in Tokyo don't shop anywhere else for their

Tsutaya
Tokyo
Tsutaya has everything you might need for ikebana (flower arranging) or the Japanese tea ceremony, including vases of unusual shapes and sizes, scissors, and tea whisks. Open daily 10am to 6:30pm. Closed the first, fourth, and fifth Sunday and last Saturday of each month.Tsutaya has everything you might need for ikebana (flower arranging)

Wako
Tokyo
This is one of Ginza's smallest department stores but also one of its classiest, housed in one of the few area buildings that survived World War II. It was erected in 1932 and is famous for its distinctive clock tower, graceful curved facade, and innovative window displays. The owners are the Hattori family, founders of the Seiko watch company. The store's ground floor carries a wide selection of Seiko watches and handbags, while the upper floors carry imported and domestic fashions and luxury items with prices to match. It caters to older, well-to-do customers; you won't find hordes of young Japanese girls shopping here. Open Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 6pm; closed holidays.This is one of Ginza's smallest department stores but also

Yamamoto Soroban Ten
Tokyo
You can still see older Japanese doing accounts with an abacus, although the sight is not as common as it was even a decade ago. This shop has been in business for over 65 years and is now in its third generation of owners. You wonder, however, how long it will survive in the world of computers and calculators (only two Japanese towns still produce the abacus, and Japanese children no longer learn how to use them in school). The founder's granddaughter speaks English, and will explain how an abacus works. Open Friday to Wednesday 10am to 6pm (holidays 11am-6pm). Closed the third Wednesday of every month.You can still see older Japanese doing accounts with an

Yodobashi Camera
Tokyo
Shinjuku is the photographic equipment center for Tokyo, and this store, 1 block west of the station, is the biggest in the area. It ranks as one of the largest discount camera shops in the world (though the new Yodobashi in Akihabara, above, now surpasses it), with around 30,000 items in stock, and it reputedly sells approximately 500 to 600 cameras daily. Prices are marked, but you can bargain here. In addition to cameras, it sells watches, calculators, computers, and other electronic equipment, though if you're interested specifically in watches, clocks, audio/video equipment, games, and other wares, nearby branches specialize in all of these (ask at the main shop for a map of the area). Open daily 9:30am to 10pm.Shinjuku is the photographic equipment center for Tokyo, and this

Yonoya
Tokyo
This unique shop sells its own handmade boxwood combs, crafted by a seventh-generation comb maker. Its history stretches back 300 years, to a time when women's hairstyles were elaborate and complicated, as many woodblock prints testify. Today such handcrafted combs are a dying art. The combs here range in price from about ¥3,000 to more than ¥25,000 ($25-$208/£13-£105). Open Thursday to Tuesday from 10am to 7pm.This unique shop sells its own handmade boxwood combs, crafted

Yoseido Gallery
Tokyo
Established in 1953, this shop deals in modern woodblock prints, etchings, silk-screens, copper plates, and lithographs. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 7pm. Closed holidays.Established in 1953, this shop deals in modern woodblock prints,

Yoshitoku
Tokyo
Yoshitoku has had a shop at this location since 1711, making it Tokyo's oldest wholesale doll and traditional crafts store. It carries a variety of Japanese dolls on its first floor, most traditionally dressed as samurai, geisha, Kabuki actors, sumo wrestlers, and other Japanese personalities. There are also fine -- and expensive -- dolls representing the Imperial court, dressed in silk kimono that follow the originals down to the minutest detail. Obviously, these dolls are meant not for children's play but for display by collectors. Upstairs are more mundane modern dolls, including stuffed animals. Open daily 9:30am to 5:30pm. Closed Sunday and holidays May 5 to November.Yoshitoku has had a shop at this location since 1711,

Yurakucho Hankyu
Tokyo
Connected to Yurakucho Seibu (below), this store carries mostly clothing and accessories, including shoes in its basement; clothing ranges from casual wear to business suits and designer wear. Open Monday and Tuesday 11am to 8:30pm; Wednesday to Friday 11am to 9pm; Saturday and Sunday 11am to 8pm.Connected to Yurakucho Seibu (below), this store carries mostly clothing

Yurakucho Seibu
Tokyo
This Seibu branch, connected to Yurakucho Hankyu via covered square, contains clothing and accessories mostly for women, with a few floors devoted to men's fashions. Open Monday and Tuesday 11:30am to 8:30pm; Wednesday to Friday 11:30am to 9pm; Saturday, Sunday, and holidays 11am to 8:30pm. 2-5-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku. tel. 03/3286-0111. Station: Yurakucho (1 min.) or Hibiya and Ginza (2 min.). In Yurakucho near the elevated tracks of the JR Yamanote Line, between the Hibiya and Ginza stations.This Seibu branch, connected to Yurakucho Hankyu via covered square,

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BOOK STORE
Frommer's Tokyo, 10th Edition