True, the Balikpazari is a great big tourist trap, but as a jumble of over 25 fish and fresh-produce vendors, as well as a handful of traditional meyhanes and the odd seller of dashboard ornaments, it's also an undeniable hoot. While in the Balikpazari, keep your eyes peeled in the various markets for vacuum-packed bunches of sele olives -- soak them in hot water to dilute the saltiness, and then serve these precious little pieces of fruit with olive oil, lemon, and a sprinkle of oregano.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Istanbul, 1st Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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