This is a marvelously old-fashioned perfumería. It's been around so long it's newly fashionable again. The shop markets its own fragrances, many based on almost long-forgotten formulas. Even if you're not specifically looking for perfume, you'll find an array of unusual merchandise here, including tortoiseshell accessories, custom jewelry, and even women's handbags and belts. Open Monday through Friday day 10am to 8pm; Saturday 10am to 2pm.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Madrid, 3rd Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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