Situated between the northwesterly districts of Cuatro Caminos and Tetuan, this is the biggest of the Madrid's old-style markets: noisier, grittier, and more Rabelaisian than the previous two. Its choice of fish is the largest and most varied in the capital. At the bargain-priced bar counters, you can buy as fine a coffee as you'll taste in the Ritz.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Madrid, 3rd Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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