Peak experiences in Colorado's luxury enclave
Everyone has an opinion about Aspen—whether it's about the hyperinflated real estate market, or the hyperinflated starlets that reportedly clog the snow-covered streets. The truth is, most of the People-worthy faces are far less prevalent than in decades gone by. They've been replaced by those who can afford to live anywhere but have chosen this beautifully preserved Victorian mining town in the heart of the Colorado Rockies.
The glitz factor is low in other ways, too. Aspen long ago banished strip malls, neon, billboards, buildings over four stories tall. Chain stores are in short supply, while chain smokers are objects of genuine curiosity. While today's Aspen is certainly a place where money talks (the average home price this year has hit $4.8 million), when someone here asks you what you do, it's best to assume they're wondering whether you prefer downhill, cross-country or back-country skiing.
The town itself dates from the silver mining boom of the 1880s, when it was known as Ute City. Just after World War II, Chicago businessman Walter Paepcke decided to transform its mouldering thoroughfare into an aerie refuge where high-minded folks could come to renew "mind, body and spirit." Today, the "Aspen Idea" is vibrantly alive: The Aspen Institute, the Aspen Music Festival and the Aspen Skiing Company continue to evolve and inspire.
See a slideshow of ten extraordinary Aspen experiences.
As a passionate skier who has been visiting Aspen since the late 70s and a full-time resident for the past five years, I feel qualified to comment on the local scene. And like all the other locals, I've got my likes and dislikes.
A great trip to Aspen starts on the runway. It's been said that in an average year 10% of all the private jets in America land in Aspen, but not all charter outfits are equal. One good choice is Aspen Executive Air (also known as AEXJet), which knows the ins and outs of Sardy Field. Prices range from $2,200 per hour of flight time for a light jet to $10,000 per hour for something big enough to make an impression over cocktails at the Little Nell.
When it comes to lodging, who would turn down a week's stay at the Little Nell? This slope-side classic, just steps from the Silver Queen gondola, is the only Aspen hotel that's a member of Relais & Chateaux. If you need more space, the new two and three-bedroom fractional-ownership units at the St. Regis Residence Club combine the facilities of a beautifully appointed condo with five-star hotel amenities.
Once you're settled in, the four local ski mountains offer endless choices. Aspen Mountain looks small on the trail map but skis big if you are up for moguls and trees, while Highlands augments its powerful terrain with some gloriously empty intermediate highways. Buttermilk has some of the longest, gentlest beginner runs in captivity, and Snowmass, the intermediate heaven, harbors hidden powder stashes that experts plunder days after a storm.
If you're looking to conquer the slopes with style and confidence, sign up right now for one of John Clendenin's Aspen Method Camps. Clendenin (a former world freestyle champion) and his staff of top pros will have you confidently skiing terrain you never thought possible in just two days. If long, freezing lift rides don't appeal to you, you might consider a snowcat excursion at Snowmass.
Once the lifts close, it's time to relax, shop and dine. Over at the Little Nell, Master Sommelier Richard Betts whips up private wine tastings from the Nell's 15,000-bottle cellar, which holds a Wine Spectator Grand Award. When the shopping urge strikes, head over to Curious George Collectibles, where Western memorabilia reigns supreme. Aspen is a magnet for lovers of contemporary art, too. Check out the David Salles and Robert Mapplethorpes at Baldwin Gallery for proof.
Below, my choices of ten hand-picked, road-tested, extraordinary ways to make the most of an Aspen sojourn this winter.