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The Draw
• A fairy-tale city setting brought to life by a network of canals that interlace the Neva River
• Some of Russia's foremost cultural treasures, including the vast art collection of the Hermitage Museum
• Top-notch performing arts -- especially ballet and opera -- and an innovative restaurant and bar scene
The Scene
Russia's epicenter of culture and romance, St. Petersburg hides a complex history behind its elegant facade of 18th- and 19th-century buildings. The city's European atmosphere, incongruous in the subarctic Russian north, is no accident. It was a planned city from day one, intended as a "window on Europe" to address Russia's long-running East-West identity crisis. The ghosts of St. Petersburg's founders live on in the harmony of the city's canals and streets, which were built to order by Russian emperor Peter the Great, and in its cultural wealth -- the legacy of Catherine the Great's obsession with European art and architecture. Although much of St. Petersburg's glory lies in its imperial past, it has reinvented itself since the fall of Communism as a hot destination for tourists and business people. Crucially, St. Petersburg is the stomping ground of former Russian president Vladimir Putin, who was behind the city's hosting of the G8 summit in 2006. The city's newfound political clout, booming economy and buzzing nightlife point to one thing -- St. Petersburg is back on the world stage.
To Be Seen • Nevsky Prospekt. St. Petersburg's main thoroughfare has it all -- the historic Gostiniy Dvor. Under this covered arcade, you'll find designer names, the best nightlife and unparalleled people-watching.
• Palace Square and the Hermitage. The Winter Palace, scene of the 1917 October Revolution, overlooks the historic heart of St. Petersburg, Palace Square. The Hermitage Museum, which sits adjacent, has an art collection rivaled only by the Louvre in Paris.
• Vasilevsky Island. Located across the river from Nevsky Prospekt (see above) and the city's main action, this overlooked enclave has recently come into its own. It has some fine riverside restaurants with stunning views, including Russky Kitsch.
For The VIP
• The art nouveau Astoria hotel is St. Petersburg's most authentic and luxurious place to stay. It enjoys a prime spot overlooking St. Isaac's Cathedral and the Neva.
• Peterhof is Peter the Great's summer palace -- a rhapsody of extravagance and ambition on the edge of the Baltic Sea. Travel Russia (www.travelrussia.net) can arrange for a private hydrofoil to take you to the Peterhof pier, which is the best way to appreciate the full scale of Peter's achievement.
• Dine alongside St. Petersburg's new elite at Palkin on Nevsky Prospekt. A symbol of the city's renaissance, it reopened in 2002 on the spot of the original restaurant, which dates from 1785. The menu, laden with rich sauces and hearty dishes like pot-au-feu, remains true to tradition.
Overrated
Nightclubs and cabarets. These have become a byword for sleaze. Instead, bars and dance clubs are the places to see and be seen. Since it's hard to keep up with the fast-changing scene, ask your concierge for recommendations, or where to purchase an English-language city-listings magazine.
Underrated
The State Russian Museum. The Hermitage tends to steal the limelight from this outstanding art collection. The museum, the largest of its kind, captures the essence of Russia, with a complete overview of Russian art from traditional icons to avant-garde creations. The collection spans several impressive buildings and gardens, including Stroganov Palace, St. Michael's Castle, the Marble Palace, Mikhailovsky Gardens and the House of Peter the Great.
Don't Miss
A Russian ballet performance at the sumptuous and historic Mariinsky Theatre, still referred to as the Kirov Opera and Ballet Theatre. Hotel concierges can often secure the best seats in the house.
When To Go
The White Nights in June and July, when the sun never sets and the city throngs with all-night activity, is the best time to visit. Avoid the damp, freezing winter, when daylight is scarce.
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