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The Draw
• With 5,289 skiable acres, size does indeed matter.
• One of the best dining and après-ski scenes in the West
• The closest the West comes to the feel of a European ski village
The Scene
Vail is the skier's Disneyland, with an ersatz Alpine flavor that does its best to charm. But like many who've reached middle age, 43-year-old Vail is in the midst of a face-lift. This $1-billion, multiyear expansion and upgrade includes a new Four Seasons and essentially tearing down anything that isn't up to five-star standards and rebuilding it. If Vail routinely tops the polls, it's because it's the one place in the States that has it all in one place: terrain, nightlife and a true skier's vibe. It's got seriously good, hip restaurants like Kelly Liken, while the Bavarian-flavored Sonnenalp is the most atmospheric ski hotel this side of the Alps. And nightlife ranges from the charmingly gemutlichkeit-flavored kitsch of Pepi's to the L.A. edged scene at Fubar.
To Be Seen
• The Back Bowls. Fanning across 3,017 acres, these steeps are a siren song to powder hounds eager to make tracks on vast swaths of open terrain.
• Beano's Cabin. Venture 10 miles up valley for a snowcat ride to dinner at this cabin on Beaver Creek, Vail's sister mountain.
• Colorado Ski Museum and Ski Hall of Fame. The history of the sport is raised to an art at this museum.
For the VIP
• Stay a night or week in Game Creek Chalet, a four-bedroom luxury aerie set on the mountaintop at 10,500 feet. Perks include a private chef to prepare dinner, a ski concierge and a private instructor for half a day. There's an alfresco hot tub for stargazing and guaranteed fresh tracks the next morning.
• Arrange for a daily private ski guide who can take you to all the powder stashes that only locals know about.
• Book the chef's table in the kitchen at Larkspur, where Vail's star chef Thomas Salamunovich holds sway.
Overrated
Adventure Ridge. Tubing and ski biking here are aimed at kids and corporate meeting planners. If you want real adventure, sign up with Vail Snow-Cat Skiing for a day in the White River National Forest, where the legendary 10th Mountain Division trained.
Underrated
Blue Sky Basin. Schuss and duck among 645 pristine acres of gentle, ungroomed tree skiing that gets you away from the crowds.
Don't Miss
A snowshoe outing with Ellen Miller, snowshoe director of Vail Athletic Club who has twice summited Mt. Everest..
When To Go
January through early February is the hidden season, when you'll have the slopes to yourself. For ideal spring conditions, go from mid-March through early April. Avoid the seriously overcrowded Christmas holiday period and President's Weekend.
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